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Does anyone know where to buy these latches?
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1973 Seacraft Sceptre Windshield Latches
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that looks pretty custom made by a clever guy who appreciates multipurposing - probably MacGyver
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Other than being black, mine look the same. Definitely factory. No idea of source.
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Make shift them utilizing a stainless lifting eye nut and a nylon spacer washer;)
http://www.suncorstainless.com/sites...es/S0322-0.jpg |
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Taylor Made makes these. They might work also with little or no mods
https://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-6rtev...09.500.750.jpg |
My 1972 Seafari has the identical tan plastic wingnuts. They feel very brittle and I am hesitant to use them, so might be looking for a replacement too.
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These and gasket hardware came from American marine producets - if I remember correctly. A member was recently looking for the gaskets. I purchased a lot of the hardware when I rebuilt my scepter windshield a couple years ago. They were really helpful
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American Marine in Florida
If redoing, go for the upgraded handles - they're stout ! |
Contacted American Marine they said no longer available . Flexpat was nice enough to offer to produce cad /programming for them , to use with a 3D printer . So i mailed him an old one . He is going to email me the programming (don't even know if that is the right term) so when i get that ,i will have some made, if they work out good I will get more ,than I need made and offer them to anyone who needs them
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abl111 if you got some from them recently let me know , upgaded sounds good
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I could use 4 if they are available. I could even pick them up from Sisu in Red Bank, NJ. Thanks.
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The originals were injection molded and they did not have 3D plastic printing in those days. I think a printed one will be strong enough if printed in the right kind of plastic. I think the best plastic to use will be black nylon - if I recall correctly that is UV stabilized. Guessing on that - I'm not a plastics guru and there are a zillion different types of plastic - some better, some worse.
I will draw it up in Solidworks - it's a 3D CAD program. Typically places that do 3D printing use .step files and I can save the design in that format. I would like to find a place on CSC where I can upload these files along with a text file for recommendations on plastics to use etc. That way anyone could just download the file and print whatever small part they need. I also have the file for the female side of the ladder clip that I did a while back for Jonbrush. Unfortunately I can't remember what kind of plastic we used for that but it was a harder plastic than nylon. Here is a .jpg of that: Attachment 14237 |
Mitch, those ladder clips were purple lol, if that helps. I painted them white and they are holding up well.Your son did the printing.
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Ask American for the handle conversion - they're far superior. If you're replacing your OEM handles, it means you have the glass out so you might as well go with the black handle style. Did this 12-13 years ago - AWESOME UPGRADE.
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What is the handle conversion you refer to? Thanks Jon |
We have a cool biz in SD called MakerPlace.
Its a DIY Shop that provides access to fabrication tools and machines like CNC, and 3-D printers that the avg joe might not have access to, or space for. They offer membership and per use access. FLexpat, am I correct in my understanding that numerous plastics can be used in a 3-d printer? |
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3D printers as a broad family can print with a whole lot of different plastics and even metals but I think individual printers are a bit more limited. Somehow it is probably going to get back to the more expensive ones being able to do more/better. My son thinks he used ABS for Jonbrush's ladder clips - ABS needs a UV inhibitor but Jonbrush painted them so that isn't a problem - obviously he used a paint that does not attack the ABS. For the latches I think nylon would be a little better but since paint would not stick well they would need to use UV stabilized nylon. |
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6 shooters ar still ok, thanks to Reagan, Autry and Rogers. but now I must bleach this from my pryvate server... dasvidaniya, mkgyl |
mkgyl
Спасибо (spasiba) Just did a little homework and it looks like printing the latches should be done in Nylon 12 which seems to be pretty common as a filament in 3D printers. As far as the mags go, I probably need something like ULTEM 9085 but I can't solvent weld the two sides together. Maybe one of the stiffer grades of ABS would work. All this for a kid who is doing match competitions and wants a 6 round mag (not standard) because all my 10 round mags are too long and make it hard for her to hold still while standing - and only 9 more matches this year. OK - I admit it - making rifle parts is fun. A $2500 printer for 4 mags? I see another rathole coming in my near future. M |
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How's this? I modified the original design a little to try and make it stronger.Attachment 14264
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Looks good to me - like it was designed by a pretty clever guy who appreciates multi-purposing but knows when he needs to use the right tool. Mitch MacGyver? Extra thick at base lends more torque-ability at stress point. Taper at contact is good too, wasn't readily noticeable in original post.
Just a curiousity -- what caliber is yer girl matching in? Surely not NATO rounds?:D |
She does High School Rodeo and here in Utah they have smallbore and trap as part of HS Rodeo (without the horses there):eek:. The smallbore is 50yds with a .22; 3 position NRA (standing, kneeling, prone) using 3-7/8" targets (white rings are about 7" OD). She only does the rifle and is shooting a TOZ-78 made by the Tula Armory under the Winchester Wildcat label for about 2 years (07-09?). Although she hasn't shot my larger rifles, she doesn't seem to be bothered by recoil or noise too much though since her fav handguns are my 1911 and my .357.
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Nice to see the high schools have a shooting program out west. I wish mine in NJ had - so I did not have to wait until college. Then I competed in indoor 3 position smallbore too. What a great thing to relax and concentrate on the range. It sure helped my concentration in class too, and my grades went up! I'll bet she is a good student. Please give her my encouragement!
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trying to post pix from photo bucket - Its being a PITA !
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See if you can soon in. My boats under wraps for the winter and this is the best I can find for now.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49...1/DSC00934.jpg |
My 24' Albemarle used them as well and they were still available as I purchased two of them!
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classic twenty where did you buy them ,
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I am in need of these as well. Found these online. Wondering if they would work just fine
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/wind...mEYaAkbD8P8HAQ |
I tried those not as good as originals
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Volunteers?
It has taken a bit of hunting to track down a reasonable way to print these in plastic. By far the best thing would be to get the original injection molded part but I haven't been able to find them either.
So who is gonna be the guinea pig and let us all know if this works? :eek: I found a place online that will print them. You will need the .STP file for the latch in my earlier post - this site won't let me upload it ('invalid file type') so PM me with your email address and I will send it. I found a place online that will print them: https://www.shapeways.com/ Make yourself an account there. Upload the .STP file - dimensions are in mm. I got frustrated and added the text 'v0' to the file name and pressed 'Update' and the image showed up. I think they will pick the best orientation for printing automatically but that may require some experimentation. Choose material - 'Strong and Flexible' it is Nylon 12 - I hope thats a good choice.:D It looks like these are $5.13 each |
I will be the guinea pig. I just placed an order for 25 of them on the website you found. Thanks for making the layout for these! Will keep you posted when they arrive.
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need some help on this topic. I attempted to remove one of my 4 broken latches yesterday with a socket on the nut holding what was left of a latch. The entire bolt was freely spinning and therefore could not get the nut off. What is the trick here? I attempted to use a flat head screw driver to put some pressure on the bolt at a angle but was hesitant about pressure so as not to break the glass.....can I get a little help????
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Try squeezing nut tightly with vise grip and drilling center of bolt head with drill diameter of the thread. Head should then fall off. Use good quality drilll bit
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I told you that you wouldn't like the answer. For me opening the windows is pointless as the center hits my top frame so when mine go back on the will be screwed and glued shut forever. |
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Just got the window latches ,back from printers ,thanks Mitch (flexpat)wiil try tonight
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I wanted blue but not that blue
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Kinda bright - should be able to find them in the dark - I did not include capability for installing an 'off' switch ;)
Wonder what they will fade to? |
They work great , color is growing on me
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