Trailer shopping
 

Need a new trailer for 1988 18CC, any suggestions as to best fit (float on, roller, etc.) and/or where to look outside of local shops?

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!

Owens and Sons - St. Petersburg, Florida build float-on type trailers that fit 18' and 20' SeaCrafts like a glove. They have the hull profiles on record and taper the solid Cypress bunks to match the boat. A little like Duck Dynasty, but they know their sh*t.

A little like Duck Dynasty, but they know their sh*t.

Yep, they are and they do!! :)

Don't forget to get the "Stainless" upgrade package.
You'll be glad you did:)

Loved my 85 18'.( Float-on trailer)

No indication of where you're located, but the type of ramps you'll be using and the amount of tide change you have to contend with can make a big difference in the type of trailer selected. If you have good ramps that allow power loading and often have others with you to help, a float-on type makes sense.

However if you have to deal with tidal swings of several feet or short ramps with a sudden drop-off and are often by yourself, I'd consider a good roller trailer like an EZ Loader with a power winch that will allow you to load and unload anywhere, anytime, by yourself, in any kind of cross wind or cross current. You also don't have to dunk the springs or axle if it's set up right, which greatly reduces maintenance required. But be sure to use the EZ-Loader roller system with aluminum roller axles and nylon bushings that don't require lubrication. I bought the galvanized trailer below in 1985 and although I replaced the aft cross member a few years ago due to rust, it still has the original springs on it because they seldom see salt water!

this is great advice !!!!

Picking the right trailer is more than a little tricky. There is a huge amount of hype out there and very little good advice. I own an Owens floaton, love it. The above description is right on; they are "good ole boys" that build the best float on out there, matched perfectly to your boat. I also launch from good ramps, designed for floatons, often by myself. That said, Bushwacker had good info. If you are cursed with poor to mediocre ramps, a tilt trailer has a lot going for it. The key in either case is to get a good one, that fits your boat perfectly. Good research will pay better dividends than you can imagine now.

Second this^ Love mine too. Also get the stainless hardware upgrade and torsion axels no mater what you get

Ditto on the "stainless option". My last three trailers were built from a local guy, Peterson Trailers. He no longer offers the stainless option, it's standard, as is torsion axles and aluminum bunks....not wood. The first trailer he built for me was in 2007, was the "old type". Springs, mild steel, wood bunks, etc., I'm on my third set of springs and second rear cross member due to steel u-bolts and corrosion.

Spend the extra up front....if it's a bolt it's stainless.

Now if you want to make that trailer Gucci and keep it long time, get yourself some "Tef-Gel". Back off all the stainless bolts and hardware that touch the aluminum frame and apply the gel as instructed;)

I bought a Road King aluminum float on last June. It had the stainless fasteners and torsion axle, but, wood bunks. I had to get the factory to send me some longer brackets to get it set up properly, but, after getting everything adjusted, I love it. It has the Vortec spindle/hub assemblies which carry a 100,000 mile warranty and no maintenance.

While I agree that different ramps can make a difference on which trailer to choose and that a good roller trailer does not require immersion into the water, I don't see the need to have a second person with the float-on. Many times, I have launched and loaded both my old 18 and my current 23 by myself. I used to just hop off the boat and onto the dock, after powering the boat on the trailer. I don't "hop" as well anymore, but I think I could still load the boat without having someone drive the truck out.
As far as dealing with cross winds and current, I would think the roller trailer would be harder without someone pulling on a stern line to keep the boat straight.
When I have someone with me that knows how to back a trailer, I am moving the boat towards the trailer as it gets to the water. It then generally takes less than a minute to have the boat out of the water.
I watched three guys take about 15 minutes getting their boat loaded on a roller trailer that they used as a float-on type. After taking all that time, the boat was crooked on the trailer.

Whaaaat? 100K on a salt water trailer?

It depends how well you have the trailer set up. I added a couple of keel rollers to the aft X-member which have a notch in the center that keep the boat centered until the 16 rollers on the back contact the hull and start lifting it off the keel rollers. If you look closely at the outer rollers in the second picture in previous post of boat coming on trailer, the outer rollers are right next to the outer step, so they do a very good job of guiding the boat on straight every time regardless of wind or current.

I used to have some side rollers (shown below) to force it on straight and even had 'em raised about 12" to contact the rub rail, but I took 'em off after discovering I didn't need 'em once I got the outer rollers adjusted correctly. However I still have those side rollers, so if anybody wants them let me know!

That's what I said!
That's the hubs mind you.

FYI - to understand Sandy's reply, you have to understand that he's used to only getting about 100 miles on his hubs before they overheat and the Bearing Buddys fall off!

Wow! I didn't even know boat trailers came with odometers. They have come a long way since I last bought a trailer twenty four years ago. Really, its not the mileage that gets you as much as the age. If the warranty says 100,000 miles, or three years, it will probably be the three years, unless your traveling long distance every weekend.

100,000 mi or 6 years
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...cwIaAppS8P8HAQ

Hahaha

Glad I didn't hit anyone!

I gots me some new 4500 lb torsion axles w posi lubes

They are sandy proof.
Rides like a magic carpet

"They are sandy proof"

You are kidding, even a 2" trailer ball is not Sandy proof! :) Yeah, bouncing bearing buddys at 70 mph could be an issue for oncoming traffic!

Not much in this world is Sandy proof.

The first time I went Skiing when I was 9, Harriet said you get these.
Old Head standards. The black ones which can`t be broken. 90 cm.
They were in pieces by noon.

All: sage advice all around.

My apologies for the delayed response (one of those weeks). To clear up any questions I'm located on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. Tidal range is relatively small but varies up and down the peninsula. Boat ramps are hit or miss. Mostly miss. Might be launching from a marsh every now and then around here. Have to fish where the fish are!

Sounds like my kind of shop. Willing to take a road trip for a good trailer. Second question is what's this going to run me $$??

0.0245 seconds after Googling Owens and Sons......

https://www.slideon.com/

Call them.

Here are a couple pics of my Road King purchased last July.
http://s833.photobucket.com/user/unc...tml?sort=3&o=3
http://s833.photobucket.com/user/unc...tml?sort=3&o=2
http://s833.photobucket.com/user/unc...tml?sort=3&o=1
I love it! Boat fits like a glove and she floats down the highway just as well as the SeaCraft does on the bay!;)

Just figured out I can view all the pics on my photobucket account by clicking on the link. Have a look at the rest if you are so inclined. Got nothing to hide!