'77 Seafari Shift/Throttle Etec Cables
 

Finally have engine height correct. Waiting to buy a Power Tech 15.5 X 15 used, have a line on one now. Not sure how long throttle cable has been "going bad", but it is shot. May explain why I was raging up on plane, and then abruptly falling off. No mid range throttle. SO... waiting for available spot at local dealer!

I'm 90% certain I need to replace both throttle and shift cables at same time. I cannot locate length of cables. Just trying to pre-order ahead of appointment so I'm not on the hill any longer than need be, because I have guests coming the 24th, and especially now that the ARS is open every weekend. Hoping to follow my buddy's widow out in her 2510 Parker Pilot. I fished fifth guy from the bow and besides spilling A LOT of beer, it kind of sucked.

Anyone one know the proper length of TeleFlex cables? 2006 Etec 150 currently Blue cables. Anything better available today? TIA.

Vezo, Part II

Hey Michael-
Don't know how my original throttle and shift cables compare to yours. I researched the etecowners site and concluded the best was probably the splined Teleflex TF Extreme cable. For my '76 Seafari with a 2012 150 HO ETEC I installed 16' cables which fit well with a slightly larger loop at the engine that I was looking for. The Teleflex part number is TEL-CCX20516 where the last two digits are the length. I ordered from Jamestown Dist instead of Barnicle Bills simply they had them ready to ship. Same part number for shift and throttle. Before installing I marked where the cam roller was on the throttle cam to get the threaded length of the cable correct.

Thanks so much Capt, if a 15' is available, would you recommend that? I can't see the last two digits of my cables, supposedly stamped at last three feet, either end. Contemplating pulling throttle box, to free up that end for size.

Thanks,

Michael.

The 15' cable may not be long enough. The larger loop is only slightly larger and could tell because I could not snaptie it to the rest of the bundle but preferred to keep it this way. Here's what I did. Take a solid wire like strip one from the three wire one used for house wiring. Stick and secure it to the engine then secure it along the path of your current cables up to the side mounted throttle. Roung up to the next foot.

I can take a photo at the engine end if you like to see the loop.

Measuring it would be way more accurate than waiting for mechanic to remove it. Great idea. Thanks.

the Xtremes are smooth and worth the Xtra clams.

My Evinrude dealer measured my shift and throttle cables at 14 feet with a 30 inch rigging loop in the splashwell. Upon installation that was about 6-9 inches too short, and I wanted a 36 inch rigging loop, so I traded them in for a 15 foot set. Seams about right in my 72 Seafari with transom mounted Johnson V4 115hp, so it should work for etecs too. With a 16 foot length, I would expect a larger loop.

Thank you John at the dealer as of yesterday. Exactly the info I needed.

Michael.

Throttle Cable
 

Vezo-
Michael send me a PM with your emal or cell number and I will send you photos of my cable loop, etc.

Thanks Capt., kind of out of my hands now, but Thank You!!!

Michael.

Maybe several members should post a few photos of their splashwell - rigging loop with measurements for other Seafari owners to reference? I will take some photos in the next week or two, as I still have to button up the hatch side of the tube - I am installing the fuel system next. Might also be a helpful reference with hydraulic cable routing too.

Here are photos of 16' Teleflex TFextreme cables on my 20' Seafari. No measurements on photos I already had. But can probably judge it by the width of the gelcoated splashwell about 30". One photo shows the location of the throttle lever. Another barely shows the cables in the upper left corner of the stern access to the batteries. I tried to route in this area for largest possible bend radius. The throttle cable is the largest loop. All the advice was to avoid tight radii of the cables. There was a suggested radius (don't remember the value); but I am larger than that. To any ETEC owners there was a bulletin about replacing the on-the-engine throttle lever that rides against the throttle cam to avoid one that was getting sticky at operating temperatures. The part number stayed the same, but rev C was the fix.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2515

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2516

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2517

Etec Computer
 

Dealer has had boat since Monday. Assumed broken/failing throttle cable or linkage out of adjustment. So far found bad Perko battery isolator switch and replaced. Improper voltage may have damaged my computer ($1700). $240 owed. Cannot find problem so now River Test for $99. Just warned him to be careful. Boat is unpredictably dangerous. When did technology surpass the intelligence of the average bear? Crap.

Electronic Gremlins
 

Michael-
Guess electronics are great except when they aren't!! At age 14 my 35HP Johnson sometimes required a lot of hand cranking; but electrically there wasn't much to fail. Then later my 100HP Johnson had a failed pulse pack (before they went to one for each bank and when pulling the flywheel was required to get to the electrical connector for the pulse pack); lost a summer of boating due to factory strike or something. Now automobiles can go 100K miles on a set of plugs, but when something fails electrically is often difficult and expensive to locate the issue.
How was your engine performing dangerously? If this is the boat with the ETEC you might put your symptoms on the etecownerssite; be sure to include model and serial number.

Easy to explain why it's dangerous. On my 99 OMC 175 on the MA, the throttle and shift cables are outboard of all the internals of the starboard side of block. So if the lock nuts loosened and there was an inch (feels like more) of play between the nuts on the throttle cable, you would have little reaction between throttle advance and retarding. Hence, all at once pinning passengers in their seats, at best, and then coming off plane, throwing each passenger forward into the bulkhead. Exactly the symptoms. Computer not throwing any codes and difficult to diagnose running engine in a barrel. I must be getting more dumb, each year.

Michael.

Yikes! that surging thing sounds like a bugger.

Here's a shot of my rigging loop on the '72 Seafari with 15' cables and a 36" loop. Just for reference. Michael - did you get the surging problem fixed?

Actually I have not had a chance to river test it, but have zero expectation of any improvement. Ultimately, a new Perko battery isolator switch, and new Xtreme cables, which I already had the 2011 upgraded blue cables from original installation. Mechanic said they were fine. Wrote a check for $640.00. Let's just say I have a very, VERY bad taste in my mouth.

I believe I have a bad Throttle Position Sensor. Remember the slot cars we played with as kids? When you wore out the trigger of the rheastat, you could go full throttle down the back stretch, approach a turn, back off the trigger, and the car would either maintain full throttle and launch off the track, or just stop. That's what my engine is doing. Now I know why I can't plain under 3800. She suddenly drops to like 1400, launching my guests into the forward bulkhead. It SUCKS, and I'm disappointed the dealership would allow it to leave.

Vezo, Part II

Bad ETEC TPS
 

Michael
You mentioned a bad TPS. Check this out. I replaced this part on my 2012 ETEC. At the engine your throttle cable attaches to lower end of a throttle lever that has a cam shape at the upper end. The lever with a roller that contacts the cam is maybe 4"-5" long. If your cam follower lever does not have a "C" for rev C marked by the part number replace it as these would stick at operating temperatures. I am in Fla so I can't look at my records for the p/n. Contact Barnicle Bills where I bought mine for maybe $15 plus shipping. They will be well aware of thr part you need. The "C" is hard to see but with a bright light you can see it without removing the lever from the engine. This is well described on etecowners.com.

Thank You Captain Terry! I just forwarded that to Gulf Coast Marina!!! Maybe you just helped find my Gremlin!!!

Michael.

If you're still running that bow lifting Viper prop, that's one reason you can't plane below 3800 rpm, but they also changed the shape of the throttle cam on the early 150's to address throttle sensitivity complaints. However if you fit the Rev. C cam that Capt. Terry mentioned, it should also have those changes in it.

ETEC Throttle Cam
 

For Vezo's ETEC, The part I referred to when I was recommending the rev C version is not the throttle lever with the cam shape as part of it. It is the lever with a roller that rides on the cam.

ETEC Sticking Throttle
 

Vezo
Check this out for your sticking ETEC throttle. It includes description, part number and illustration.
http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/...005187-6721439

Agreed Denny, just missed a 14.75 X 15 Power Tech from BigShrimpin and Fleabay. Shit. Have not heard a word from dealer. I wish you were closer to try and drive this thing!

Michael.