Degree of Tilt for Thru-Hull transducer?
 

Good evening all,

Ordering a new electronics package for my 23 Seacraft IB. I am going with the Garmin 741xs or 742xs, and will be getting the B150 thru-hull with it.

Question is, what degree and what location should I be getting and doing? The transducer comes in 0, 12, and 20 degree configurations. The thru-hull will likely be located in the bilge where accessible towards the inside of the boat, so I think that means I would want the 20 degree configuration?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I have the b-164 at 20 degrees

Don is spot on! Go with the 742

Thanks guys,

I am leaning towards the 742xs. I thought I'd need the 20 degrees thanks for the confirmation.

Does anyone have any experience with the GT23M-TH? This is the fairing block style thru-hull which also gives you the ClearVu (aka DownVu) sonar scanning.

Is it worth the extra $200 or so get the down scanning capabilities? Instead of just have the one hole with the "mushroom" style thru-hull, you now have to deal with the fairing block so is it worth it?

I found this thread over on THT outlining the difference, but do you gain much more than just having the regular sonar?: https://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-...nvu-chirp.html

Ordered the 742xs and the B150 yesterday. Thanks for all the help guys!

I'm looking to install the Garmin 7610 XSV / 7612 XSV with airmar B75 thru hull 20 degree tilted element with chirp.

Nice, that's an awesome unit.

I would go with the B175H or M depending on how deep you fish. Much better transducer

So slight curveball today, Semperfishing over on THT had an early blackfriday sale on Garmin 840xs for $465. I ended up ordering one of those.

For that price, I'll take the larger screen and I don't mind the buttons.

Question on location, where exactly should I locate the thru-hull? I was checking it out today and it looks like it's going to be a tight fit no matter where I try to locate it around the engine and actual access I have to work with.

I think it would be much easier to put it in front of the engine, behind the battery tray. I have worries that this will be too far forward, but I think it's borderline for when I am up on a plane.

Hoping some other 23 IB can chime in on this one.

Hi there
I put my p319 thru hull ducer just aft of the fuel tank on my IO sceptre. It is just in front of my yanmar and 6-8 inches off the centerline. It seems perfect. The dead rise is very slight there. Like under 10 degrees. I didn't use a tilt either. It has a beam of 45 degrees. I'm happy with the location. I'm upgrading units and want that 840xs as well. Have you received yours yet? Does anyone else on this thread know anything about it? Seems like a great toy for my boat. Thanks

The tilt you want is 20 degrees if you located it just starboard of the centerline which is what I recommend. Closest to the stern would be my preference. Here is a pic showing the location of my 264n. I understand most don't have the access I do to their bilge area but this has been a flawless location for a thru hull tilted ducer.

Thanks guys for the info. I wish I had that kind of access, problem with the IB is bilge area is limited close to centerline aft due to the running gear. Think it's going to end up under the transmission as close to the centerline as I can get it.

The 840xs is a good unit, they are on sale over on THT for $425 shipped through semperfifishing. Guys name is Gil, I have ordered two so far. (One for seacraft and one for the tower of the Luhrs).

Guys
Are you sure it's that much deadrise that far aft and just off the centerline? I'm starting to question my transducer choice if that's the case!?!!

The deadrise at the bottom of the hull at the stern before the first strake is 18 degrees. Areas towards the direction of the bow will only increase. You want the 20 degree tilt.

Thank you.




QUOTE=kmoose;255447]The deadrise at the bottom of the hull at the stern before the first strake is 18 degrees. Areas towards the direction of the bow will only increase. You want the 20 degree tilt.[/QUOTE]

I have been meaning to post on here for a few days now.... excuse the ramble but hoping to give as much advise as possible.... I install marine electronics here in South Florida for a living. Primarily most of the work I do is on big sport fishes but I do on occasion work on their tenders and centre consoles too. Centre consoles is where I started out in the field. Primarily I install a lot of garmin and also Furuno. Garmin is very user friendly, kinda like an ipad. Furuno, most of the stuff I install is on a commercial level, radars, autopilots and sonars. ( I also install AV, stereos etc). From a recreational point of view, garmin is by far the way to go and you will definitely get more for your money/ease of use. I currently just upgraded to a 840xs and Airmar B60 transducer on my ‘72 20SF. Gemeco, maker of Airmar actually have an App where you can narrow down what type of transducer is suitable for you needs etc. in the app is also a “tilt” function which will help you figure out your deadrise. (Side note: those of you with iPhones, open up your compass and slide your finger to the left and you will find a level feature.) on my 20SF where I chose to mount my through hull, it was around 17’ so i went with the 20’ element B60. I will attach a diagram from airmar for best suited installation locations - keep in mind that make sure nothing is mounted or penetrates through the hull forward of your transducer location i.e. no through hull fittings or pickups etc. on the bigger boats we typically install the transducers on a fairing block. This lowers the transducer and keeps it below the air pocket. All hulls, particularly stepped hulls, create an airpocket which will not allow the transducer to operate correctly - evidence of this is when backing up, the screen goes fuzzy and cannot give you an accurate depth, depth display blinks. Once the boat is moving forward and the boat passes the turbulent water the transducer will read correctly.
Now, chirp vs traditional......
The big debate.... personally, I prefer a traditional transducer. I find it easier to dial in. What i have seen in the industry is that everyone wants chirp, but 90% of these people that want it have no idea what chirp is, just that it is the latest most techie thing released so to catch fish i have to have it.... I work along side professional boat captains daily that have no idea what chirp is - and this is their job, this is all they are paid to do.... mind boggling.
The simplist difference is that a traditional transducer will ping on a single frequency, be it 50kHz for deep water - upto or around 1200-1800ft depending on KW of transducer or 200kHz for shallow water. There are also some transducers that allow mid range frequencies too.
Chirp will ping on multiple frequencies in a range, allowing for a more definitive image below.
Some quick reading - https://scout.com/outdoors/bass-fish...onar-101451465

I hope this helps some, feel free to contact me if you have any questions or need some advice/guidance etc

That, was an awesome bulk of information. Much appreciated!

I have both chirp and traditional fixed frequency ducers and one benefit to using chirp with the higher end Garmin MFDs is that you can single select the frequencies within the range of the chirp ducer you select. This allows for some very fine tuning and also allows you to run multiple ducers without conflicting returns.

Moose, you are absolutely correct. The latest trend now is to install 2 ducers each with a separate GSD26. The last 4 or 5 refits and installations i have done, the most common package is the B275LHW (low, High - Wide) and a R409LWM (Low-Wide, Medium) so now, you have all 3 level chirp frequencies L,M,H and you have a Low wide angle and a high wide angle. Now, this is a lot but keep in mind this is a bigger sport fish, the last boat we refitted, we installed 3x 8622 on the main dash, 2x 7612 on a drop down box from the hard top, 1 8617 in the cockpit and a 8608 in the tower. So this captain has 5 displays on the bridge....
his typical setup was to run the R409 with LW chirp on one display with bottom zoom, and the B275 with HW chirp on the next display with zoom locked at 300ft. The other 8622 was radar and the 2 overhead displays was chart and engine room cameras. So with his setup he is able to run dual frequencies and see what’s happening on the bottom and can then focus on the upper water column. What i did notice with this captain, he would very often switch between chirp and traditional because he was not convinced but was also still learning how to dial it all in. On traditional settings, the B275 High frequency is still Wide, so wether you are using chirp or traditional, the high is wide angle and on the R409, the low on either is wide.

This is why I try to push folks with limited space towards spending the extra money into the xsv series Garmin MFDs. The internal built sounder has full chirp and traditional inputs as well as 2 separate network ports for radar and a GSD 26. It’s hard to match their flexibility and performance all in one unit.

Considering most SeaCraft owners spend most of their time working coastal depths a GT 51 is an excellent option for bottom fishermen who search for structure but still need want reasonable depth capabilities. The sides scan works great for finding ne bottom and the traditional medium chirp does surprisingly well up to 1000’.

Hobie
Do you feel as if the 8 inch display is enough for a 23 foot sceptre with limited space at the cockpit ? A few people have made comments offline that the 840xs is slow and will frustrate the piss out of you. But they are also raymarine owners. Ha.
I appreciate the write up. Super good info. I looked at the true size demensions between the 840xs and 94sv and it was silly close. I don't want to kill my Helm with limited space but also don't want to get sick trying to read the screen. Ha.
Thanks so much

Here is a pic of my dash with a 7610xsv and a 1242xsv. The 8" is a small screen and depending on what you are using it for, size may be a consideration. I will also tell you the 840xs is a pretty dated unit and the feedback you got is likely true if the latest software updates have maxed out the processing power of the unit. The 840 and 1040 are great units but well to the back of the line for continued support from Garmin. That said they still are supporting the unit and provided an update last month.

kmoose
Thank you sir. So would you think the 94sv a better unit? Perhaps I should just get that. I use it for general use. Fish some but ride more with family. I will use split screen when I Snapper fish but hardly ever to locate fish. I use them a lot for general depth and bottom structure when Snapper dropping. I’m going to use the airmar ducer p319. Thanks

I installed the display and transducer a few weekends ago, i have not had much chance to use it due to having to do a full refit on a 63 Merritt and have it ready before christmas for the owner - lots of weekends working.....
That being said, once i have my settings dialed in im usually the kind of guy to “set it and forget it”. Most of the time, i will either be on a chart/sonar combo, or just a chart or just a sonar page. I dont have radar, or any other network devices to slow it down and i dont have a NMEA backbone either to support Canbus data. It is purely just for chart and sonar so even if it happens to be a little laggy, it is not going to be enough to worry me, besides, not like i need all the gear for my weekend cruise to the sandbar or to take the kids out for a little fishing.
i have never actually played with the 94sv - but just a quick review after looking at the website and compared to the 840xs for reference:
The GPS signal refresh rates - 10x per second for 840xs vs 5x per second for 94sv, so GPS is not as accurate
94sv has a slightly wider display and is almost an inch shallower if depth was an issue when mounting?
No radar support for the 94sv
And the biggest difference for me, is that the 94sv only has a 500w built in sounder vs the 840xs which will support a 1Kw transducer. The more power, the deeper you can see ( also depends on the transducer combo ). Keep an eye on the deadrise for the P319, i believe it is up to 7’ and you need at least double that... my experience with plastic transducers is that if you hit something submerged they usually crack or break off leaving a 2.5” hole through your boat...
If you are thinking about going with the 94sv, look at the Airmar B619 (20’tilt) for a traditional or possibly a airmar B150M (20’ tilt) for chirp as a relatively inexpensive option.
Having installed many transducers, my only other advice would be is to try and stay away from the transom mount transducers, i have nothing against them, but for me, i feel like even when installed properly, they kick up a lot of spray when planing, usually dousing the motor in buckets of salt water.

P.s. if i could really afford it, a 7612xsv would fit nicely on my dash with minor modifications... who needs a tach anyways...

Unfortunately, with kids being sick over the weekend, we did not go boating as planned. I did however turn on the unit (840xs), disable sonar transmission and play around with all the settings and pages etc and I can say, that I did not notice any lag or the unit being slow at all.... like I said before, I am only using this unit for chart and sonar functions and it is a stand alone unit - not networked to any other units. Good enough for me!

I got mine in! Went well. Great fit. No issues. 20 degrees is what I got thanks to the fine gentlemen on this thread. Thanks guys!!
Also while we are here, on my sceptre I looked very closely on where the engine mounts to the engine bed (see picture around transducer). Is there woodcore in that engine bed or do you think it’s solid glass?

I also got my 840xs installed and also am very happy with it.

Dginge,
Great looking install! Which transducer did you land up going with?

B619. Personally I don’t care about anything but traditional sonar. It’s 77 and 200 frequency and you can run a split screen. Bronze and a temp ducer. What else could I possibly need. It was time consuming to do alone. A lot of in and out, but painfully fun. I ran the line with surgical lube in the wire chase under the port side. Easy as 1,2,3 since I used the old wire as a pull. I got an MMSI number and linked my vhf and 840xs. Now if I need to leave my boat at least someone may find me.