My 1978 Master Angler Refresh
 

I picked up this 1978 20' MA from fellow member Red20 a couple of weeks ago. Going to make her pretty once again.

Plans are (in no particular order):

1) install some finish panels to hide the naked fiberglass that the factory covered with carpet

2) Paint deck, cap and hull -thinking seafoam or Aquamist for the hull and non-skid, white for cap and trim

3) Replace Leaning Post with something a little more modern looking

4) Add T-Top

5) Service and paint the engine but longer term plans will be for a repower

6) add some goodies here and there

7) fish the daylights out of it

What's your hull number? Mine is 39.

The actual hull number is unknown. It has a Florida assigned HIN.

The story is that when the company was sold in 1979/80, there were two leftover MA's not included in the deal. Mr. Potter kept one and gave the other, unfinished hull, to a friend that was a guide down in the Keys. The guide finished it up the way he wanted and used it for a number of years.

At least that is the story Red20 told me when I looked at it. One of these days I will try and do a title search to see who the owner was that registered it as a 1984 homebuilt vessel.

Found a leaning post that might work. It has a nifty little divided storage area under the seat.

I’m not sure why no one else has chimed in with regards to your “punch list”, but I bought my 1979 MA in 1996 with a rigged engine. She blew, rebuilt twice and by 1999, pre-CSC, I had to bite the bullet for a new outboard. Fortunately my mechanic found my transom required a rebuild. Unfortunately, I had never heard of it referred to as a SinkCraft, and I had the transom done from the inside beautifully but NOT Raised to 25 inches!?!

Maybe Red20 knows the transom to be solid regardless of the metal (patch) plate on yours now. That would be my first concern. And if transom is wet mulch, take it from me and raise at least 25”. As you said, hopefully it can be postponed until repower. Best of Luck.

Michael.

Oh, and has it’s been said here many times, “whatever you anticipate cost, triple time, materials, labor and beer”. So true, making your punch list become a Priority List.

You might consider a few other things.
Step 1. Make sure boat is structurally sound. - I agree with Michael the transom looks suspect.
Step 2. Drain/Inspect/clean fuel tank, replace fuel fill and vent hoses.
Step 3. Go through motor (clean carbs, replace fuel pumps, check shift shaft, replace tstats, poppet, gear oil, waterpump, seals).
Step 4. Inspect and service steering and binnacle control and cables.
Step 5. Rip out and replace all wiring, switches, bilge pumps.
Check or replace the through hull fittings. Scuppers and front fish box.


Back burner raising the transom and all the cosmetic stuff / boat jewelry until you are ready to repower with a 25" motor. Get comfortable with the boat then jump to your step 7.

Thanks for the headsup - I will check out the bolt holes in the transom and see how she looks and maybe have my buddy with a moisture meter come by and check it out as well.

Not my first rodeo when it comes to boat projects but my first Seacraft. I have done several boats in the past few years and dozens of classic car restorations, I know all about what a can of warms I am about to open up. Thanks again, G

Good list for sure. Most of that was stuff I plan to do but did not articulate in my list. Never fun being out on the water and having cables fail - been there, done that :eek:

You probably already know this . . . just in case that vintage yamaha had major issues with rotting shift shafts and steering arms. It's a mofo to pull the powerhead and swap out the shiftshaft. Luckily there is company has developed a nice solution https://www.shiftshaft.com/

If the steering arm is in real bad shape, then you are better off finding a different motor.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...0031_sized.jpg

WOW, that looks like a great product. Never seen it before - thanks for sharing.

My steering arm looks pretty solid. My hope is to use this motor for one season and then repower regardless of its status :)

Picked up a T-Top over the weekend. Initial test fit was a fail but my neighbor that is an aluminum fabricator said he can make it work with just a couple of tweaks.

Decided to go with Seafoam paint instead. After looking at the aqua mist in person, it was a little too pale for my tastes

Set the T-Top in place the other day to see what mods need to be made to make it work. Going to have to cut off front legs, bend and reweld them to allow for the width of the console. Plus had to cut off the upper legs and cross beams. My neighbor says it is no big deal for him to do.

also, cut the hoop off of the "new" leaning post and set it in place to get a feel for it. I think it will work nicely once I paint it and get a new cushion made. Also, I think I am going to remake the engine well cover. It is too low and does not allow for the motor to be properly trimmed up. I don't want to get rid of it since I think it adds to the boat's personality. I think I will make it modular instead of hinged plus raise it up about 2-3 inches

Somebody here or THT had an engine cover for sale recently

cover
 

I saw this one the other day. I think its down to $200

https://www.thehulltruth.com/parts-f...reduced-4.html

*this is not my item

Thanks for sharing that listing but I want to keep the design as built by the original builder. I think it adds to the boat's uniqueness. I am just going to raise it up to allow for the motor to be trimmed properly.

Afaik that was not factory but they are functional.

I think that's smart . . . if you cut bait or chum that cutting station is A++++++++
it's not the sexiest design, but it's super functional.

Yes, it was not factory but this boat was slightly custom built from a left over MA hull when the company was sold. The guide who built it added it to the boat along with the custom center console.

Ditched the other t-top. It was too small for my tastes plus would really have needed too much to make it fit right. Found another one yesterday the will give plenty of shade :)

Also, started prepping the engine cover area to be raised up 4". Will start the glass work this week. I think I am going to make the top of the cover out of starboard instead of reusing the existing one. I also plan on pining it in place instead of having it hinged to the front cover. That should make access to the bilge a LOT easier.

That big top looks good on the boat. I hate the look of a tiny little top on a boat.

Thanks - I gotta agree small tops are not even useful - I don't understand the trend at all

Just make sure it's not catching air when the bow is up on plane. It'll slow you down like a giant parachute/umbrella.

Starting to work on raising the engine cowl cover. Cut some plywood and pegged it in place with dowels. Coated with resin and then laid some 1708. waiting for it to cure enough to sand down some of the renegade fibers and then put another layer or two on before fairing it out.

also, set the t-top in the proper location so that my neighbor, Paul at New Wave Fabrication, can raise the front legs about 3-1/2" for me and add a couple of down braces to the center console.

Doing a little more body work to the splash well/engine cover

Getting closer. Just have a few low spots left and need to work on the radius by the entry areas.

Gave myself a goal of having the cap and gunwales ready for paint March 10th.

Pulled the rub rail and will start pulling rod holders etc this afternoon

Well, may have to do the transom after all. Found a soft spot where the ladder is mounted. Going to take a moisture meter to it and see if it is the only spot or if a full redo is in order...

Transom seems to be ok. moving forward. removed rod holders and grab rail. started sanding on the cap. There are virtually no stress cracks and only a few unnecessary holes to patch YAY!

Well did not get to paint the cap and gunwales this past Saturday. Maybe next weekend. Did do some more sanding and filling on the cap. It is almost ready for the epoxy primer I plan on laying down first.

Since the weather this afternoon was amazing, i decided to roll the epoxy primer onto the cap. I proabably needed to use a little more brush thinner but I plan on sanding it smooth anyways. This is just to "lock in" any of the crappy old paint to keep it from lifting or reacting with the top coats.

more pics from today. This kind of makes me even more fired up to get her done :)

Moving forward!!! Getting after the ‘79 MA as well! Great progress!

Vezo, Part II

Sanded down the epoxy primer that did not flow out. Started sanding the blue paint from the hull as well. Luckily, the faded/checked blue paint is sanding off pretty quickly and the gel coat beneath is in great shape. No cracking or really any gouges either.

Did a BUNCH more sanding yesterday.

And then even more today

And then I went REALLY crazy :)

Beautiful morning for shooting some paint on the cap :)