Help. Hull repair from the outside...how many layers of glass?
 

Over the years our boat shifted further forward on the trailer (float-on with the aluminum hoop). Eventually that led to too much weight on the front guide/crossmember which damaged the hull. Our never leaky boat began getting some water in it. I filled it up at home and water came out just at the support and I cold see the damage. Anyhow, I ground it down to the glass. Two questions.

Have I taken the repair out to the port and starboard far enough? How about fore and aft?

How many layers of 1708 would you use? Whould you use something else?

I'll be using epoxy.


PS. This is father franks old boat! We've got a lot of use out of it. It's really only damaged by the keelson as far as I can tell. I believe water was leaking in the keelson and out the back into the bilge. We've never hit anything.

All of the black and loose lighter colored glass needs to get ground out... Try to get a nice tapered bevel out probably 5" on either side of the bottom of the keel. 1708 is fine, sometimes on a fix like that i will take some thick clear visqueen and make patterns out of it for cutting the glass patches. Clear so you can see underneath and judge where your glass needs to be. Probably end up with half a dozen or so different size patterns from big to small (largest piece of glass first).

Fill any voids with thickened epoxy, and pre-wet your patches. Then stick em on and hardroll. Peelply will really help keep it tight if you can locate some. Then fair to your satisfaction.

I hate grinding so id try to do it all wet-on-wet, fairing compound and everyting. (let the layup harden a bit before covering in fairing compound or it will slide around)

@dirtwheelsfl, Thanks for the help. Actually thats pretty close to what I did on our last fix...but last time I blieve I was told the largest piece of glass was supposed to go last???

Outside in I agree.

Many layers faired thin and long.

As far as the trailer issue, is it scraping on the channel under the v block, or scraping the top of the axle.

The float on Hoop kept taking more and more of a bend...so initally the rear bunks were flush with the transom...now there is 8 inches sticking out. That caused the v block, which was origionally not touching everything to now be supporting quite a bit of weight just in the small area where it contacted the hull. This along with repeated loading and unloading and some trips to the keys and other place are what I believed caused it. I'll never know for sure. But, as it was currently sitting the damaged area was sitting directly on the v bunk.

I should have kept a better eye on it. I love that trailer...quick slide on and out we go.

Goodness that’s a lot of damage from a trailer!! No brainer, buy a new trailer

I may be missing something, but that bad area on the boat is behind (to the rear of) the v block. The next time you go out in it, spray some paint or something over that area, then check and see if any paint rubbed on the axle, or if there is a brace behind the axle.
Come to think of it, when I had one of those single axle trailers with the little fat tires, it would partially float. I would have to be careful with the deep v on my 18.
I took a few pics of a friends trailer (mine is about to get a face lift).
A brace was added to the area to the rear of the v block. It took some pressure off the v as well as stiffened the trailer. You should probably put something between the bunks and the I beams for more clearance. Newer trailers have spacers. The bar for the posi-lock was replaced recently on this trailer. Things can be replaced as long as the main beams are still good. No need for a new trailer, unless you get a screaming deal on a shiny new one.

Tiny, check your messages

Connor

bumpdraft, the only reason it appears to be far back is because I blocked the back of the trailer and slid the boat back to several feet to gain access to the area that needed attention...then tilted the trailer up to get under it. :-).

Connor, checking them now. Thanks. Matt

Ok, that is probably why it looks like two lines. That area is more flat and doesn't fit the V correctly. Hard to believe that the bar stretched eight inches. Probably a combination of the misshaped bar and the bow of the boat sitting lower on the trailer that allows it to go that far forward.