Post pics of your bunk trailers
 

Hey guys. On my new to me 20, I need to set up a different trailer than the one I got with the boat. I have a nice galvanized roller trailer but the roller parts need some love. I like the support bunks give to a boat, so I think I want to convert it to bunks. I have rollers on my aquasport, and its nice, but I think I want bunks this time. I did a search and maybe I missed all the good stuff, but I just wanted to see how people are supporting these boats, and where the contact points are. The one thing I like about the trailer the boat is on is how low it sits. That will be nice for driving as well as launching. Thanks!

Owens and Sons build the aluminum frames the width of the outer most panel, but up against the first chine, and then the wooden bunks get through bolted into the aluminum I-beams. This guides you on centered, and locks the hull from wanting to slide left or right aft. The rest is up to you, meaning a V-block for the forward keel to rest. Transom supported by rear of bunks, longer as a step up into the boat, but not shorter. Flush with transom Should not effect trim tabs. Then bow roller located just above bow eye, hoping if you ever get rear ended she will not end up in the truck bed.

Adapting a trailer not set to width, 57”?, will require gavalanized brackets and Stainless hardware inside the actual frame. Capiche? Pics to follow. Custom would be beveling tops of bunks to degree of outer panel of hull prior to carpeting. Hope this helps. My brother just got an ‘18 Owens and Sons for about $2800, St. Pete Fla. Where are you located? I could probably transport it up the Eastern seaboard and visit family up to Cape Cod, cheaper than shipping???

Vezo, Part II

Here's mine.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1529415627

That looks great, uncleboo. So you have what looks like 2 bunks about 5' on the outside, and 2 around 4 feet on the inside but farther forward. Do I see it right?

Let’s try this Basket. This is a Quick Load Aluminum I-beam which is too narrow with main bunks attached to topside of beams (strongest and and distributes weight on the beams rather than the cross members).forwards of axles looking back. All four chines run parallel with bunks (straight). Better pic from rear next.

This pic from rear shows transom even with bunk ends, but if you notice she is resting on second chine, and would rather have bunks spread another 1.5 to 2” per side, locking the hull inside the beams and lowering the boat.

Pretty dark in the garage. Sorry.
Next is a new to me Owens and Sons that was built for a Pioneer 196 CC, which is obviously wider at say 61” inside of bunks, and the outer panel will support the weight over the beams, but not center and lock the first chine.

Lastly, I have to close the distance between bunks from 61” to 54” to lock the chines. These additional blocks wil only support very little weight but will guide/line outer chines up making it easier to drive on centered. NOW, my ramp in Fla, is very, very steep so blocks, not carpeted yet, will have to be secured about there the water line is on approach. On a less steep ramp, ideally you would want them much further back.

A little tough on a table saw to match angle/beveled edge on top to match the angle of the outer panel, but the factory was spot on for a SeaCraft.

No affiliation: Jeff, is salesman and knows SeaCraft bottoms incessively. Kim is very knowledgeable, answers phones and admin.. Greg runs the shop. All three are Owens, and awesome to work with. Any other questions they can answer. Be prepared. When Jeff gets on the phone he will have answers for you. Write them down in advance because they are always BUSY.

Hope this helps.

Michael.

The rear bunks are 8' long and are adjusted such that the outer steps rest just inside of the bunk locking it in place. The forward bunks are inside of the innermost steps close together but angled outward just a tad at the rear to center the boat up better and also to keep the keel from hitting the crossmember when loading. Works great.

Hi Basketcase,

Mine is a 23, but principles are the same. I originally had my rear bunks set so they were just inboard of the 2nd chine resting on the middle panel. While apparently this is the best structurally, I found it did not center as well. Also, the further out you go, less of the bunk actually contacts the hull unless the bunk has alot of flex. See pic 1

My current setup has the back bunks just outside the most inboard chine, again resting on the 2nd hull panel. I think the structural support is almost as good and the boat always centers itself perfectly. I do have forward bunks that guide the bow into the center of the trailer. See pic 2

The only thing I would do different is change the cross member supporting the front of the forward bunk. Right now it is straight across. I would go for one that has a dip in the center so my bow could rest lower. See pic 3

My rear bunks are beveled and are set on end for strength as they carry most of the weight. The front bunks rest flat against the hull as their primary purpose is to guide the boat on the trailer. The carpet is covered with Teflon where it contacts the hull. This helps launching and retrieving when you can't quite get the boat to float off without a little shove.

This is all great info. Thanks everyone for the ideas.

I was trying to do this same thing, but was having trouble fitting between the fenders. Now I see I was trying to go too low. Do you find you have to back in very far to launch/retrieve?

I launch on both shallow and steep ramps. I have a very short draw bar which works in my favour in tight situations but a longer one would definitely be better for launching. See pic.

I back down the ramp until my rear tires on the truck are just touching the water, remove the safety chain and winch strap and give it a little shove and she just floats off. If the forward cross-member had a dip in it, I could lower the bow a bit and I think it would just float off without a shove. I don't like dipping my truck's brakes in the salt water because I generally don't rinse the truck and trailer until I get home.

For retrieval, I don't back down quite as far so I can see a bit of the front bunks and walk the boat along the dock onto the trailer. If there is no dock, I usually have someone in the boat to keep the stern straight. Once I get the bow between the front bunks, it centers perfectly on the rear bunks. I have to winch it the last foot or so. I have never tried driving the boat on or off the trailer but it comes off so easy it is not worth the bother.

Once I pull the trailer up onto the flat, I have to winch it a few more inches because of the sharp rake of the bow. Apparently if I had a double bow roller (one above the eye and one below the eye) on a pivot, this wouldn't be necessary or the distance would be minimal.

The trailer is a Venture 6000T with electric-hydraulic disc brakes. It comes standard with torsion axles and sealed hubs. The carpeted bunks have Teflon where the boat touches the bunks, which I think helps tremendously, especially on the retrieve because they are wet. Those pvc guide-on posts also help.

Here are some pics of my 23' Sceptre