Bow mount trolling motor - 20 ft SC MA.
 

I am looking to install a GPS bow mount trolling motor on my 20 ft SC MA.

Looking for recommendations and experiences on - brand, shaft length, power etc

Thanks

I have a minn kota riptide 80 on my 20 sceptre...cant remember the shaft length I'd have to measure... plenty of power...anchor lock is a must have in my opinion... I think 24v is enough for the 20 seacraft and plan on doing something similar for my 20 ma.

strick

I run a '73 20 CC with a 24V 60" shaft, 80lb thrust Riptide. I upgraded to the head with I-Pilot to include the spot lock. With a pair of Interstate Group 27s (I think 27s), I can troll for a few hours at 2.2 MPH in calm conditions and it will run days if I am just at 0.2 MPH casting a break or whatever. 60" shaft length is plenty for me. I have fished in some pretty gnarly waves and it really never becomes an issue of the TM not working, just me getting tired of getting knocked around.

I agree the anchor lock or spot lock is a sweet deal. Mine is sketchy in very light breeze. It searches around for where it's supposed to be. If there is any steady breeze at all and even a decent wind, the thing holds tight to a spot. I was a skeptic until I took my kids out to fish crappies (yeah, I am in Minnesota) over a reed point on the windward side of the lake. I locked the spot down and the motor held the bow in the whitecaps and allowed us to flip jigs 15' behind the boat and not worry about anything.

Also, I added an on board charger right away when I got the TM. It was only a two bank charger. Nice but didn't hit the starting battery. I have since gone to the "smart" Minn Kota three bank charger so it keeps both TM batteries and the starting battery topped up all the time. Good for when I forget to switch off the damned Lowrance GPS antenna.


Scot

Thanks for the reply's.
Sounds like 24v is plenty - was aiming for the minn kota ulterra - auto stow and deploy sounds nice - but after seeing how easy the new latest "assisted" terrova deploys on my friends boat, rethinking that the terrova might be the way to go. One less thing to go wrong - I have read that the latest gen ulterra are more reliable but all stuff breaks sooner or later.

Battery location?
 

Esoxesox - where did you place the batteries and how did you anchor them?

I trying to find out how long Lithium battery's will power trolling motors from owners who have them.
Lithium battery's save a lot of weight and if a single 24v or 36 v Lithium battery has enough drain-down power it is a game changer.
36v Lithium 33lbs vs 3 lead 150lb plus, 24v Lithium 24lbs vs 2 lead 100lbs plus - in-addition one battery could be put under the console.
Its only money ..........

"Its only money .........."

Some bad news, my wife has figured this saying out!! SeaCraft projects = less money :)

I run a 70# thrust. Usually it's fine, but I wish it was an 80.

I have been widow shopping (stalking) the Rhodan GPS Anchor/ Trolling Motor. 24v, 60" 80# thrust. I want it to hold me over hard bottom in the Gulf and from what I've read it does that very well and is very well made.

Defiantly decided on 24V 60" shaft, 80lb thrust TM with Lithium Battery(s).

I like the Rhodan GPS Anchor/ Trolling Motor. 24v, 60" 80# thrust which now can connect to Simrad FF/GPS units, which I have - nice feature but not essential.

I have been out on my freinds 23 JB with a Minn Kota ulterra - the ulterra is new and the auto deploy worked fine. The TM changed a .3 mph too slow drift ( tide against wind) into a 1.1 mph - made the difference between catching and not catching fluke.

But I would prefer not have the extra complication of the auto deploy function if possible and I like what I heard about the Rhodan TM.

But I am not sure the practicality of manually deploying and retrieving a TM mounted on my front upper deck/gunnel area. If the TM is mounted at the front I assume I would have to get up on the front upper deck area - if the TM is mounted to one side it would possible to lean over to get to the TM. The point of the bow is 40 inches from the back of the front upper deck area which is a 24 inch step up from the main deck.

In flat conditions no problem but I fish choppy LI sound spots with currents swirling around. I would like to hear from guys that have a similar situation and other advice.

I have a 71 20sf i fish long island sound. I run a minnkota terrova 60" 112lb motor. I wouldn't go with anything smaller

Hi HatTrick,

Sorry for the delayed response...

I have the batteries mounted forward under the CC seat. I glassed in a piece of marine plywood that spans the width of the console, anchored battery boxes there along with the breaker and the on board charger. The starting battery is up there too.

The nose on my '73 isn't as clean as yours is. I have a permanent bow light forward of the puck. I pulled off the starboard cleat to allow for the mount of the quick release bracket. It's the one that just leaves a small rectangular puck on the deck when the motor is off. I've always intended on installing pop up cleats set back a bit but, for now, I just come in port side to.😏

The old Riptide you see in the pic requires months of strength training to deploy but comes up easily. We have a newer Terrova on a Javelin that is a piece of cake to deploy. We fish in some decent chop up here in Minnesota and never really felt I was hanging out over the bow bringing the motor back in.

The story of my final choice of TM and battery system (a little long winded).

I got a Minn Kota riptide auto deploy Ulterra with spot lock, 36v, 60-inch shaft.
Took me a year to make my choice - I spoke to 4 guys with TM on SC 20’s. Two had MK Ulterra’s 24v, 60-inch shafts who were happy with both the power and shaft length. The other two guys who fish the same area I do (long island sound and CT rivers which can have some wicked rips currents) have MK 36v, 60-inch shaft, who recommended to get the 36v if possible (but 24v will hold most of the time).
All four guys said 60-inch shafts are fine, if the prop is coming out of the water you probably will not want to stay out for long any way!
I had already decided to go with a Lithium battery set up for space, weight.
The fore deck on my year SC 20 has an awkward sized fore deck which prevents getting close to a TM mounted at the front on the boats center line (best position if possible) - which makes an auto deploy TM a no brainer for a 68-year-old over a manual TM.
Being able to auto deploy the TM while being at the console controls and FF is very nice when close to rocks, makes moving to different spots easier. After using it, I am very happy I chose an auto deploy TM.

I have the Iconic 36v 50 AH battery, their dual 36v /12v charger and their 36v heavy duty aluminum battery tray which totaled around $2000.

So far so good - The single battery 36v battery is a very clean uncluttered installation - compared to (3) lead acid battery saves 100lb of (2) battery weight and space. A game changer for a SC 20. My single 36v battery install was the first for my marine mechanic (who is truly a master craftsman) - he was not overly enthusiastic when I told him I was going with a new-fangled single "lightweight 45lb" 36v battery but after the "simple" install he was impressed and thinks that is the way to go now. Another feature I really like about the Iconic battery is that it has blue tooth that connects to a app on my smart phone which allow me to easily check the charging status of the battery.

On my SC 20 I roughly estimate I will get around 20 hours + - of constant 36v TM use in 5 knot current. Most times I have used 10 - 20 % battery for up to 6-hour fishing trip but not operating the TM all the time - rough guideline. The smart blue tooth app to easily monitor battery usage is nice

2 thumbs up right now

One day my 23' will go away and I'll have a 20' MA and that similar TM setup. That's very nice!

Thanks for the up date..it sounds like a great combo..

strick

36v 112lbs 60” shaft…
Do not get auto deploy, the linear drive units fail at a pretty
Regular rate.

Use a 36v lithium battery - Dakota has the best available.

Lithium batteries are the way to go - you’re using wet cells costing approx $150 each, need 3,thats $450 you’re gonna need a 3 bank charger along with a plug for it - you’re looking at $275/$300 for the quality brands.that’s about $750/$800. Depending on use, you’re gonna kill those batteries quick,maybe 2 seasons, then another $500 for batteries…

Lithium - yes the initial expense is greater , but, most offer 10/12yrs warranty on that battery.
Do the math

3’battwriea take up some room, one 36v doesn’t ….

I’ve got the unit I mentioned - always go for a heavier unit ! Yep, the 80lbs will work, but get in heavy current and try to hold structure…

Use a heavy duty “quick release” bracket - use the rubber bushing that come with the motor under the “puck”,when mounting it.
The heading sensor will need to be connected to 12v and fused correctly.

Plugs - the cheap “twist” style will not hold up. Junction blocks are not a bad idea, to avoid the common plug corrosion. Attach and heat shrink seal the connectors on the trolling motor power cord , attach these to the junction blocks below the foredeck. Easy enough to undo, when you want to remove the trolling motor.

You need to power the trolling motor correctly, do not use a small guage wire for power and ground - the volt drop will be a factor and the amp carrying will to. Use 6g marine grade tinned thru out . “Jump” wires to series the batteries, and power to 70a breaker. Use a quality breaker, not the cheap ones.
Run your cabling in a chafe resistant weave - see attached pics.


Owner of this rig - he opted for orbital batteries,long wait for lithium he wanted to fish.

Note the pic of the cheap breaker ? This boat was factory rigged for a trolling motor. The rigging wasn’t used ! Boat was 2020 and the connectors were not heat shrink sealed, the cabling wicked moisture and the cheap automotive cabling was corrode internally.
That breaker in the picture, it was in the bilge,midship.those breakers fail on a regular basis.use a quality breaker,sized accordingly.
A good corrosion inhibiting spray is recommended , I like ans use merc corrosion guard, on all connections.
Trolling motors require “clean” voltage and amperage - the system needs to be done correctly , for best operation …
The “jump” cabling - its color coded, this avoids confusion when redoing connections.remember, batteries are “series” connected, to increase voltage

Let me add a little more here :

I have a Hydrasport , been fishing that till I’ve got my 20 done …

I added a 36v 112lbs I pilot to it.

I left a few things out , like the head support , you want one of these, it supports the unit when it’s not deployed. Get it !

Be sure and fuse the heading sensor - I’ve lost count of the I pilots I’ve seen with the heading sensor infused and in the wrong location. The heading sensor needs a clear view of the motor to operate correctly .

Can’t stress this enough - I’ve seen more problems with trolling motors due to poor wiring and connections …

Do it once, do it the right way and be done with it !