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-   -   1969 Seacraft 20 Total Rebuild (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=30337)

hobiepilot 05-17-2020 09:10 PM

1969 Seacraft 20 Total Rebuild
 
10 Attachment(s)
Finally getting serious about our 20 Ft Restore. Bought the boat back in 2014 from JW Tex and pulled it from Houston to Maryland. After many years of doing a little work here and there we have it back in Florida and are making great progress on the rebuild. I'll post some pictures along the way Please comment on any ideas or experiences you have with your own rebuilds. Enjoy the progress!

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All Hardware removed and ready to take off the top.

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Not too many surprises under here, the transom was dry as well as it had been redone by the previous owner.

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after hull ground and stringers raised

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Reinforced the bow where the u-bolt is bolted through with g10 and a lot of fiberglass

hobiepilot 05-17-2020 10:01 PM

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Forward Bulkhead.

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Built up the console how we want it. cup holders each side with a spot for phones, glasses, etc in the middle.

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Fuel tank compartment, forward locker, and nice sized aft locker.

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Large aft locker, 11 gallon water tank will go in the forward part of this locker with a removable bulkhead.

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Forward Bulkhead installed.

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Fuel fill line and vent line through holes.

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We built these brackets to hold the plumbing for the engine controls going aft.

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Next up, Plumbing install for engine controls. Sand and paint all deck lockers and install the Fuel Tank.

Thepistonhead 05-18-2020 11:30 AM

Awesome!

DonV 05-18-2020 01:07 PM

Priority #1, the drink holders look great!!! Coming along very nicely!! :)

crsavage1 05-19-2020 10:52 AM

Hobie is that fairing in the lockers, the picture of where the fresh water will be? I am working on my own 69. Any plans for how you are going to lay out the transom area? Mine had a bait well put in by someone but I am cutting all that out.

dirtwheelsfl 05-19-2020 12:53 PM

I like those fuel line holders!

hobiepilot 05-19-2020 06:58 PM

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CRSavage....The freshwater tank will go in the forward part of that aft locker right behind the bulkhead for the fuel box, then we will put a removable bulkhead behind that to seal off the tank from the rest of the locker, so still a good size. As for the transom area its going to have 2 seats/hatches on either side to get to fuel filters/ water pumps etc. and a floor hatch in the middle in front of the motor to get to the bilge, it's still just rough plywood for now. No live wells on this boat anymore.
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hobiepilot 05-19-2020 07:15 PM

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Today the cap went on, as well as the casting deck in the bow. We decided to put the cap on now to give the hull more rigidity before we put the deck on.

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Plumbing in for the Engine Controls

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Also ran a conduit forward for speaker wire and bow lights

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Cap On!

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Reinforced the front of the cap, and also some places on the sides for rod holders and cleats.

fishstu 05-29-2020 10:52 AM

Nice work - you will have a great riding boat better built then when new.
I am very impressed with the skills and dedication of rebuilds like this one - way about my ability.

hobiepilot 05-30-2020 03:46 PM

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Dry fitting the transom. Going to make more of a fairing up to the edge of the hatch lids so they sit flush on top of the transom angles. These are really big hatches so working in the back there getting to pumps and filters etc. will be nice and easy.

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hobiepilot 06-03-2020 12:34 PM

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Here are some updated pics from the last couple of days. Things are starting to go back into the boat very quickly now.

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Transom dry fitted with scupper drains right out the back.

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Scupper Drain dry fit through the transom box

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We opened the gutter up so its flows right out of the big scupper drain.

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Bit scary cutting 2 large holes in the back but we got it in the right place. Pleased to find the transom is bone dry and 2 1/4" thick, transom was redone by the previous owner.

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Port Side Scupper from above, water fill hole drilled on the cap.

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Port Side Scupper

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Forward Bulkhead installed on top of the casting deck. Faired the cap into the bulkhead like this instead of straight across. Makes it look a bit more like its one piece.

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Will have a nice sized locker up front for lines, fenders, etc.

AlabamaRick 06-03-2020 01:07 PM

You have got it going on! How big are those drain tubes? Those holes in the transom look huge.I am assuming that you are going to use a flapper type scupper? Keep up the good work... I love to watch a good restore

hobiepilot 06-03-2020 04:21 PM

The holes are 3 3/4" by 2 1/8". We are going to copy what some other people have done and put a half tube cover over the back to prevent back wash into the drains.

hobiepilot 07-13-2020 09:26 PM

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Installed the Fuel and Fresh Water Tanks today. The rotor molded tank is a bit of a pain because you need to leave space for it to expand, at the same time keeping it secure in the boat. We used the Moeller Tank straps which aren't exactly the best, but we made them work, and used foam strips to pad the tank while still allowing for the expansion. The water tank has rubber shower liner around it for padding and is secured in with some battens and a battery strap. How have you all secured your tanks in?

Tomorrow the deck is getting glued on!

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Xcomunic8d 07-14-2020 03:32 PM

Brother that’s looking great.

Keep up the work and thanks for the pics!

DonV 07-14-2020 05:38 PM

Gotta ask you about those Moeller tank straps, painted steel??

Ed 07-15-2020 09:15 PM

Very clean work. Nice job

hobiepilot 07-15-2020 10:38 PM

Yeah the tank straps are stainless steel with a rubber coating on it. Honestly not very impressed with them, they had to be modified to fit properly. The tank has some threaded parts on the top that seems like you can screw a bracket into but we couldn't find any information on this from moeller or online, everything we read said to keep the gap all the way around the tank, kinda hard to do when its screwed in.

erebus 07-16-2020 07:41 AM

The expansion, if I remember correctly is only usually around 3%, which is pretty negligible.
If the tank is 20 inches across then 3% would only be around +-5/8 of an inch.

hobiepilot 07-28-2020 09:31 PM

What do you guys recommend for bottom paint on these center consoles? The boat will be trailered. Above the water line will be Awl Grip Aqua Mist and something White below the water line.

gofastsandman 07-28-2020 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobiepilot (Post 268680)
What do you guys recommend for bottom paint on these center consoles? The boat will be trailered. Above the water line will be Awl Grip Aqua Mist and something White below the water line.


Got pics?

hobiepilot 08-01-2020 09:09 PM

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Some more progress. Stuck the deck down and fiberglassed it in place. Then did the first layer of filler. Progress is fast now as everything we do is putting something back into the boat. Lots of sanding and filling ahead! A few more things getting built right now are boxes to cover up the fuel fill and washdown hosepipe, as well as some rod holders to add structure under the gunwhales. I'll throw up some more pics when they are done and installed.

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Cap Filled, sanding then a thin layer of glass to prevent pressure cracks next

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Building out the hatch lid support on the transom boxes.

dirtwheelsfl 08-02-2020 09:36 AM

Clamp envy!

hobiepilot 08-14-2020 07:53 PM

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First coat of Filler went on today after I cleaned up the fiberglass around the rod holders and the fuel line/washdown boxes. now its sanding and filling and sanding and filling.

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strick 08-14-2020 08:59 PM

I like your under gunnel rod holders..I was going to fix your images but looks like I'd have to remove them all then re add them from my computer which is more pics then I want to mess with...are you taking photos with your phone and then posting? Nice work

strick

hobiepilot 08-14-2020 09:37 PM

Yeah I am taking them with my phone, I've tried all sorts of things to try and make them go right way up! nothing seems to work.

hobiepilot 08-16-2020 08:13 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Drilled and dry fit the hardware on the deck today. Exciting to see them on there even though they were pulled off right away. We also had 4 flush mount rod holders we planned to install on the caps, but realized they would interfere with the horizontal rod storage and essentially make them useless, so we made the decision that the horizontal storage was more important and scrapped the flush mount rod holders and kept the cap clean. We have 4 rod holders on the leaning post and for the amount of fishing we plan to do that will be plenty.

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Thepistonhead 08-24-2020 07:28 PM

Awesome!!!!

hobiepilot 10-06-2020 09:44 PM

7 Attachment(s)
Heres an update on the last couple of weeks of work

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Installed the boxes on either side of the boat. The Port Side will have a fresh water wash-down hose.

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The Starboard side is a box around the fuel fill and vent pipes. the cover will be removable to get in there to take care of any issues that might arise.

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Finally got the first coat of 545 primer down. Was pretty happy with how it's looking so far.

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The Primer shows all the dings and blemishes, vinylester filler all over the place. I finished fairing this filler today and will putting down a coat of High Build Primer next.

Thepistonhead 10-07-2020 07:25 PM

Looks amazing!!!! Solid work!

strick 10-08-2020 10:31 AM

Thats a lot of work...looking good and your on the home stretch!

strick

hobiepilot 10-18-2020 08:19 PM

10 Attachment(s)
After grinding out, filling, and fairing some spider cracks in the hull. I shot the first couple of coats of primer and added some more coats on the inside. The primer showed a few more blemishes that I'm going to work on... I don't think you can ever sand and fair enough, but its looking better and better after each step. I found a fantastic painting "how to" on youtube where Frankie gives a really simple, straightforward process to using awl grip products. I've been using his methods and I'm very pleased so far. If anyone is looking at the daunting (and expensive) task of spraying awl grip, I highly recommend you take a look at his stuff! A very exciting step is coming up. My dad is bringing down some stainless rub-rails he shaped and had welded in Maryland and we will be fitting them to the boat in the next few weeks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wm9eOy_xJuE

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hobiepilot 11-01-2020 07:16 PM

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This past weekend we dry fit the rub rail and filled behind the rail to make a nice curved edge to the boat. Lots of tedious work but it came out great in the end. We got the boat off the trailer as well and will be prepping the bottom for gel coat and moving into the final sanding and painting. The finish line is in sight!

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hobiepilot 11-17-2020 08:17 PM

Advice needed!

We are putting down AwlGrip Grip Tex for the Non-Skid. Mixed with Cloud White. I have seen mixed reviews on using the flattening agent, some people say its harder to clean, and the griptex cuts the glare down enough on the deck. What have you guys used. Any ideas?

Yardguy 11-17-2020 09:14 PM

I have been using awlgrip for a long time. Gloss does stay cleaner and is more durable.
The flattening agent is a pain in the ass. It has no shelf life, needs to be agitated pretty frequently while spraying, and will wind up glossy,or patchy looking, if temps are too warm or you use the wrong reducer. Gloss looks awesome with a 50/50 mix of coarse and fine. Looks best if you spray the sand with a primer gun, and let it dry up good before the sealer coat

hobiepilot 11-17-2020 09:22 PM

Thank you! I think we will keep it simple and not use the flattening agent. That was another question I had, a sealer coat after the nonskid or not. I suppose the grip tex acts a mechanical grip for the sealer coat since you can't sand it. Is there a time frame that you have to have it down by?

hobiepilot 11-17-2020 09:32 PM

To be clear this is the plan for the non skid, please critique and offer insight if you have it!

1. Final 545 Primer on the Whole Deck

2. Sand 220,320, ultra fine scotch brite and water.

3. Denatured Alcohol Wipe.

4. Finish topcoat on the no non skid areas and the borders around the non skid

5. Let cure 24 hours ish

6. Tape off border for non skid, cover all no-nonskid parts.

7. Mix Topcoat and Griptex fine and coarse mix in spray cup. 2.0 nozzle.

8. Coat non-skid areas until covered.

8. Finish "sealer" coat with topcoat.

9. Pull tape and walk away.

What are we doing wrong?!?!

Yardguy 11-18-2020 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobiepilot (Post 269957)
Thank you! I think we will keep it simple and not use the flattening agent. That was another question I had, a sealer coat after the nonskid or not. I suppose the grip tex acts a mechanical grip for the sealer coat since you can't sand it. Is there a time frame that you have to have it down by?

The sealer coat is to keep the sand from wearing away. Basically encapsulates the sand. I wait overnite till the paint is dry enough to vacuum up the stray griptex that isnt adhered to the paint, and then spray the final.

Every other step you described sounds correct. Just make sure you use slower reducer and temps arent too high, the griptex wont adhere if the paint flashes off before you get it on there. Easy to do if you have a second person following you as you go with the other gun

hobiepilot 11-25-2020 09:20 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Sprayed High Build Primer on the hull today. I was going back and forth on wether to use only 545 regular primer or high-build and ended up doing the high build. It already has taken some of the blemishes out. After a good sand and a few coats of 545 I think we will have it looking really good and ready for topcoat.

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hobiepilot 06-29-2021 11:55 PM

10 Attachment(s)
Well, It's finally finished. It was a great first project. I learned a lot, sweated a lot, and contemplated burning it down a few times, but in the end she turned out exactly as I pictured in my mind. I was having a few issues with the second hand HPDI we put on it, but after a few days in the shop with a good mechanic, a full fuel system cleaning, and an oil pump replacement, she runs like a champ. I cruise at 35 KTS and top out at 45 kts. The boat is solid and cuts through the water like butter. You cant help but smile when you open it up and see what it can do. If anyone is getting demoralized in their rebuild. I PROMISE you, its worth it. Here are some pictures of the finished product. I will post more as I take them!


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