1988 seacraft rebuild
 

I'm new to this community but I've been following it for a while. Here it goes. I have a 1988 Tracker SeaCraft 20 project in the works. I know it's not a Potter hull but the price was too good to pass up, especially with the tandem aluminum trailer. The plan for this build is to recreate the custom SeaCraft 20 as seen on Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat. This will include removing the casting deck and giving it a flush deck, widening the gunnel cap and lengthening the deck at the bow. I will also be cutting down the shear line and building out the stringers through the transom to incorporate the outboard bracket. i will finish it off by building a closed transom with built in livewell and adding a smaller console and leaning post

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

Time to get dirty. I will not be using the console captain's chairs and liner. The floor and gas tank were shot so it all must go. I am hoping to relocate the fish box to fit lengthwise between the stringers in front of the new fuel tank so I removed the casting deck in one piece to save the hatch gutters. The gunwhale cap was cut from the liner as one piece and set aside to be reconstructed later.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I went back and forth about whether to sand and paint or strip and re-gelcoat. after much research and debate I opted to strip and re-gelcoat. Mainly i was worried about the trailer bunks scuffing a painted bottom. I have had issues with this on other boats. The black line on the shear is what will be removed to increase the overall aesthetics of this timeless hull design. I decided to tackle the outside of the hull first because it was light enough empty to get it in the air and really address the scratches and old repairs. The bottom of the hull was a combination of newer paint and weathered gelcoat.

You may want to support the hull sides with a few 2x4's fastened to each side if you haven't already. Some guys have had problems putting the the cap back on because the distance between the sides had widened.

Oops, I see that you already have

Thanks Rick! I learned that lesson lurking on the forum.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I couldn't find the color gelcoat i was looking for. I wanted a really light almost white blue. I wound up mixing equal parts FGCI ice blue with their ultra white. I added that mix in a 1:1 ratio of duratec high gloss additive. After spraying to the desired thickness I sanded and sanded and sanded and... you get the idea. In the right light and angle you can see the hint of blue.

Looking good. I’m excited to see your plans come together.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

The trailer was in pretty good shape and I could have just replaced the springs and repacked the bearings but since I had the boat off of it I just couldn't help myself. I ordered two new 3500# torsion axles and a set of stainless disc brakes and actuator. It got four new wheels and tires along with new lights and bunk carpet.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I've been working on this project for a couple of months before joining the community so I had a stockpile of photos to upload but this post will bring it up to date. I used two layers of 3/4" 26# Coosa with a layer of 1700 biaxial glass between them for the stringer extension/outboard bracket. I'm using epoxy resin for the entire build so didn't bother with 1708 glass. I will be using the same combination for the transom but will have three layers for the actual motor mount. I will have a longitudinal support "shelf" glassed on the inside of the transom on top of the stringers. The plywood is just for my templates and to use for nesting on the sheets of coosa. Can't afford any waste. I have yet to cut down the freeboard out of fear but maybe in the next few days.

There are those of us that think the aesthetics are perfect the way they are :) ...never the less welcome to the forum. Were looking forward to your resurrection of the old gal.

strick

Im with ya... I love cutting stuff up but i wouldnt mess with an already perfect sheerline!

I like the bracket. No bolt on aluminum crap to corrode

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

Thank you. I don't know that I would cut it if were a potter hull

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

So I took most of the holiday weekend off working on the boat to do a little fishing but got back at it on Tuesday. I was able to get the transom doubled up with a layer of 1700 between them. Its been glued, filleted, tabbed and layered with a single sheet of 1700. It will get at least two more layers before it's done. The outboard bracket has received the same treatment except the motor mount is 3 layers of 3/4" coosa thick while the bottom will remain a single layer. The tub will be at least three layers of 1700 inside and out. I will also be adding two stringers inside the tub before the swim platform goes on.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

So I did it! I cut 3 1/2" off the shearline of the boat. Starting at 128" from the transom it transitions from 0-3 1/2" over the span of 4 feet and leveling off towards the stern. I've included some pics of the boat that inspired this project. There's a video explaining the guys process on Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat. https://youtu.be/mwYNLp7HAZI?t=506 The link should start at the segment featuring the boat.

Nice looking boat...notice how high the engine is with the jack plate for it to function properly...I'm wondering if he added the jack plate after he tested the boat with the motor mounted to the bracket? Good choice with the Df 140.. No turning back now!

strick

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I noticed that too. I couldn't find any specs on existing brackets so I had to guestimate the proper dimensions. I built tub 28" wide with a 28" setback, 4 1/2" up from the bottom of the hull and a full 25" high for the motor mount. I'm hoping there will be enough adjustment on the motor that I won't need a jack plate.

Hes got some time in that one! Wish they showed more detail stuff instead of talking heads. Your cut looks a bit better with the extra 8” of hull versus the older hulls.
Kinda late now but i would make the setback just enough to be able to get full tilt. With the now shorter transom your setback coulda been a bit shorter im thinking. Too short though and the platform would lose too much real estate...

Yea Suzuki has a diagram for their 140 that gives the exact dimensions of the motor tilted up so you can get your bracket set back. I Have not been able to find diagram for mercury motors... I put a little manual jack plate on my last bracket to get the height right

Struck

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

It stopped raining for a bit today so I got some fiberglassing done. I got the second layer of 1700 on the transom as well as the outside of the outboard bracket. The inside received it's second and third layers. I'm calling the transom done except for a 1 1/2" x 4" x 72" piece of coosa that will sit in the notch where the stringers meet the transom.The bracket will get a pair of stringers tying the motor mount to the transom then one more layer of glass before the sanding and fairing begins.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

Here is the transom in the final stages with the longitudinal brace glassed in. The bracket has it's last bit of structure glassed in with the addition of the two stringers for a little extra support. next up will be the addition of the swim platform.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I got some fairing done on the outside of the tub and the swim platform is dry fit in place. It's comprised of 2 layers of 3/4" coosa with a layer of 1700 in between. It will get tabbed in place then a final layer on the top and bottom. I still need to do some finish work and paint on the inside of the tub before it gets glued and glassed in place.

Do you have experience with building brackets? If not, how do you know your approach will support the stress while running in sloppy seas? I am thinking about making my own bracket and fiber glassing it on, but fear the ultimate failure. I have not worked enough with fiberglass to test its strength with different techniques.

With the cost of material and time, having one built then fiber glassing it on over top of bolting it on seems like the overkill but reasonable option.

What do you think your final cost will be on the bracket? Coosa, Fiberglass, epoxy... also hours invested.

Thanks,

I've not built a bracket before but I do have some experience with fiberglass. I built three fiberglass over plywood boats before starting this project. I don't know that I would try building a bracket and glassing it on which is why I extended the stringers through the transom. This way the stresses are spread out from the hull through the transom and to the motor mount. That being said fiberglass is stronger than you think it would be especially epoxy. Either way I added more than I think I needed. As far as cost it took 4 sheets of 3/4" coosa with some to spare. Maybe 5-6 yards of 50" 1700 cloth and 20 yards of 12" 1700 tape and roughly 6 gallons of resin. All total its been about 35 hours of labor and $1800 in materials. Ordering an aluminum bracket might be cheaper and definitely easier but i prefer to do things myself.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I took a break from sanding and started to build the molds for my transom livewell and seachest. The livewell is roughly 17 gallons and the seachest will hold 2 rule 1100 pumps. one for the livewell and one for raw water washdown. I also plan to raise the deck and the transom scuppers along with shifting the fuel tank, console and batteries to compensate for the extra weight.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I've been bouncing around working on different things here and there as I have time. I have also been putting off finishing the outboard bracket because I couldn't decide on the style of drain plug I wanted to use but I did get the inside of the tub painted. I went with white only because I couldn't find a black bilge paint. The livewell and seachest molds are faired, painted and ready to be waxed, gelcoated and glassed when I can find a full day to get it knocked out. I also, was able to plumb and pour the stringers. I used cheap luan subfloor screwed to the sides of the original stringers and poured 2lb foam right on top of the old ones. They were dry so I didn't bother removing the old foam. I extended them to the bow and raised them roughly 2 inches. They just need a bit more sanding and they'll be ready for 2 layers of 1700.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

So I picked up my new custom fuel tank today. It was built by RDS Aluminum out of Perry, FL. It measures 70"Lx22"Wx8"H and has a 50 gallon capacity. the original tank was 93"Lx22"Wx8"H and had a capacity of 70 gallons. I plan on mounting the front of the tank in the original location or slightly farther forward which means the weight is shifted forward roughly 2 feet. I am hoping this will help with the weight of the transom livewell. Also, the extra space gained will make room for the seachest and below deck storage. The floor livewell was already missing when I bought the boat so I'm not losing anything there. Plus, more bilge space! Now I just need to glass the starboard stringer and get it mounted permanently.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

I popped my first mold today. I say pop but really it was soak and pry and peel. Luckily it turned out well because that mold/plug is ruined. I tried spraying PVA but for the life of me I couldn't get it to spray evenly and without beading up so I just waxed it. That's probably why it was difficult to remove. What I'm left with is a ~17 gallon livewell. I don't like the idea of a standpipe so the recessed area at the bottom will just have a plug to drain the tank at the end of the day and I will have the strainer/drain mounted to the side while in use.

Looking good Jon!!! :)

Nice job...

Strick

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

Thank you Strick and Don! I really appreciate the feed back. Also, I was surprised and a little excited to see that RDS put my name on the fuel tank tag. Thank you for noticing. This is my first build of this size and complexity. As you can tell by the pics, my work space and resources are limited but I'm hoping the end result will make up for it.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

My stringers are complete and now I can begin to mount the fuel tank and build the forward fishbox.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

So my gas tank mounts are glassed in place. I will be using 5200 to glue 1/4" X 2" PVC strips to the the bottom of tank and the gluing that to the tank mounts. Once that is setup I will be fiber glassing coosa board bulkheads on the top and sides to keep it from bouncing and sliding around. I've cut the bulkheads, sides and bottom for my forward fishbox. I'm using coosa for the bulkheads and 3/4" honeycomb for the rest. It is currently 48" long but i might cut it down a bit. I had planned on using the original fishbox turned sideways between the stringers but I didn't like the way it looked. I will be using the hatch and gutter though. The swim platform is finally glassed in place. Just for fun I included some pics of my bike fishing setup I just finished for an upcoming camping trip. The rod holders work with and without sandspikes.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

So I glassed the undersides of the fishbox and outsides of the bulkheads. I also cut down the length of the fix box to 45" because (1) it was probably larger then I needed and (2) I realized I might be able to reuse part of the liner to support the forward storage bin. I had to raise it 2" and forward 4" over factory height because of the raised and extended stringers. I got lucky in that this new position will allow me to glass the bin edges to the little kickout molded above the original attachment point. The bow section of the liner was used work out my gelcoat technique and color.

Looking good. Does the anchor well drain into the bilge?

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

Thank You! The anchor locker will drain to the bilge but I plan to build a smaller one for that separate from this bin farther forward. I want to use this larger one for trolling motor batteries in the future. The fishbox will drain through a hose and out through the transom.

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

The fishbox is glassed in place. It's clear to me now that my stringers are not as symmetrical as I had hoped. They are level with each other but their widths are different. I doubt anyone will notice once the deck and hatch are in place. With these dark times upon us I only have about an hour or two after work to get things done before dark. I may try and rig up some lights when it gets worse next month. I placed an order from Gemlux for some of their jewelry. Once that arrives I can plumb the fishbox, drill my thru hulls and then mount my transom livewell. I'm holding off on my forward storage box build for the moment because I have some grand ideas about a below deck trolling motor storage hatch. I saw one on a Shallow Draft 24 once but for the life of me I can't find any info or pics of it. My concern is the height from the top of the bin to where the front deck will be. I'm forgoing a casting deck for a larger top deck by adding on to the cap.

Boats are not square so don't sweat the below deck symmetrics. A very good friend of mine who has rehabbed many boats big and small taught me that you build and or modify boats to be aesthetic to the eye not the ruler.

Moose is right...the stringers on my 20 MA were not level with each other...thats what extra putty is for...

strick

1988 SeaCraft rebuild
 

It's been a while since I've been able to get much work done however yesterday I faired the fishbox and swim bracket. I will take pics if the coat of epoxy I painted on after ever sets up. It was probably too cold last night. I also finished building the seachest. It will hold 2 Rule 1100's. one for the livewell and one for washdown.