1975 23’ Sceptre to CC Conversion
 

Hey guys I just got me a new project. 1975 23 Sceptre that I will be converting into a center console. First Seacraft and going to be a big project but I’m excited for it. So far previous owner had cut out the deck and closed in the transom. I’m going to be cutting the front cuddy off and making the whole boat a single level flat deck. Haven’t decided yet but might end up trying to make the cap myself or have Wildfire Marine build me a cap in Florida. I’ll try to update this thread as best as I can and appreciate in advance any and all insight.

Got the tent up and shrink wrapped ready to get to work.

Cap removed, forward deck next.

Got the forward deck cut out and everything ground flat. Going to extend my stringers forward towards the bow as I’m going with a flat deck, no step up casting platform.
Anyone have any tips for extending my stringers forward? Would greatly appreciate it.
Also looking to hear from people that have ditched the liner on a 23. Thinking of getting rid of the liner and coring the hull sides maybe with divinycell?

I am going to raise the stringers probably 1.5” to 2” and then a 3/4” Coosa deck on top of that. I’m worried about the toe kick compared to the top cap. Don’t want to be falling forward when fighting a fish on the bow. Would removing the liner help?

Also if anyone wants a 23 Sceptre cap or forward deck let me know. If not it’ll get cut up and put in the garbage but would love if someone has a use for it.

Top cap and forward deck if anyone wants them.

That cap would be good for someone that wants to disect the windshield header for a build like mine.

It’s been a while but I have gone a completely different route on the boat. Cut all the original stringers out because we found wet foam and now we are going to do Four 1” Coosa stringers with 3/4” transverse bulkheads. Should be very strong and light. Deck will be 3/4” Coosa. Here’s where I’m at now.

Started glassing in the stringers. 2 layers of 1708 on both sides to the hull then once I router the top edges I will wrap two layers of 1708 over the top and overlap the side sections of glass and should be nice and strong.
Stringers were bedded into place with thickened polyester resin with silica (West system 406)

looks good. how're the temps treating you? those are long layups. Gonna be a cold LI weekend.

Mike, haven't had an issue with temp yet. I have a nice space heater in the tent and I turn it on for about 15 minutes every so often and it brings the tent up easily into the mid 70s. So far so good!
STBD side came out mint, port side I'm going to have grind down and redo most of it as I didn't grind down enough when I first started and it has alot of air under the glass due to the hull being not smooth. Every step is a learning process!

been there. I've also found some slightly thickened cab mix on those uneven spots helped me with the voids - instead of grinding too deep around it. I'd just wet the area down with neat resin, pull some thickened resin over the uneven spots and glass over all of it wet. the area where my old engine mounting blocks were was especially rough so it helped me there. Also the side of the stringers (though you've got smooth coosa).

I've been using heat lamps and small sections which has helped. I have some portable heaters too. I have a few more long runs to make before the deck can go on, so I'd like to get it done before I get froze out.

Did you shrink wrap your tent frame?

Yeah it’s all enclosed which is nice. Rain did not stop all day today and I was still able to do a second layer of glass on the outside stringer.

Little update got the middle two stringers cut and bedded down. Coming along. Going to wrap a layer of woven roving from hull up and over the stringer down to hull on other side and then one more layer of 1708 should make it strong as hell.

Any updates?

Been a while but have been making steady progress. Stringers are done, glassed down with 3 layers. Reinforcing the tabbing into the transom currently. Got the whole liner cut out, going to save the anchor locker piece. Hull sides will be cored with 1/2" divinycell. Next up are all my transverse bulkheads tying everything together. Lot of work but having fun and learning a lot.
Decided we are going to make the cap ourselves using the old sceptre cap cut down. Big radiused smooth curve in the bow something like the Mag Bay 33 is what we are going for.

Update

Nice! looks good keep us updated!

How big is the tent? I’m trying to find one that’ll fit a 20’ nicely. Anything over 10x20 seems to be $500+

Mine is 30 x 15 I believe. They definitely aren't cheap but mine came with the boat when I bought it and the tarp was all ripped so I just shrinkwrapped it. Works mint.

Made a lot of progress this time home. Got the whole framework finally done. All transverse bulkheads glassed in and also reinforced stringers to transom with a few more layers for peace of mind. Thing is solid as a rock. All stringers with at least 3 layers of 1708 some spots of “high stress” have 4. Next is coring the hull sides just picked up all the 1/2” Divinycell before I left for work. Talking to a fuel tank builder now hopefully will have one next month.

Guys can anyone help me out with why my pictures go sideways every time??? They’re always straight when I upload them

Tried to rotate before uploading

The only time I’ve had problems with pictures being sideways or up side down was when I took the with my phone and directly up loaded to the site...what I usually do is up load to my desk top first then up load to the site and they are right side up every time. You have the option of editing your posts to try an make them right..or I could do it...and have but to be perfectly honest I do not have the time or desire to fix everyone’s photos for them...

Strick

The last one I uploaded to my desktop first and that one came out straight. Seems like that’s the best way to do it. Thanks Strick! I’ll try to edit the posts later and fix the others.

No problem nice work btw and thanks for documenting it here on CSC. That boat is gonna be built like a tank when you get done with her.

strick

Thanks Strick. I'm hoping so! lol

Strick is right....like a tank!! Amazing how using coosa as you did makes the hull so strong and light!! You actually have more bulkheads than my brother's and his is really strong and light!! Besides going with coosa may have saved you money versus going with wood!! :) I can't believe the cost of wood right now, especially plywood.

Don, you're not kidding wood is insane right now. And I know my boat will be strong I just hope its not too heavy.
I think it should definitely be lighter than original because of all the wet foam and the liner that I took out but I'm not sure. This is my first build and first time working with Coosa so everything is a learning experience.

As far a weight goes I think Coosa is about 25% lighter then the same thickness and size sheet marine plywood. There is a guy on THT that has been soaking a piece of coosa for years now and it has not absorbed any significant amount or water...he posts the results once a year.. here is a interesting thred over there about coosa vs plywood...

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...plywood-2.html

strick

Coosa. Is really strong and much much lighter than wood.

I’ll never put wood in structurally again. Now teak is another story. Never enough of that. :D

Might I just add really nice job rebuilding it and documenting it. Thats well done.

From what I read, Coosa and Baltek are closed cell, so the only retention of water would be at a cut, where the cells have been compromised.

Work schedule got messed up so came home for a couple days before I have to leave again. Did a lot of sanding on the inner hull sides in preparation for the divinycell however I first started closing in the holes from the forward vents and all other hull penetrations so I have a blank slate to start with.

Also helped my brother fix the deathtrap that was the rear storage boxes on his '72 22 Mako. The inside lip that the hatch lid sat on was so broken and we have had people fall in the box countless times. So we put a new inside lip using cut off scraps of coosa from my build as well as filling some old screw holes and some minor glass work on the side of the cap. This boat will most likely be going completely under the knife after we finish mine so just putting band aids on bullet holes for now.

any estimate on how much fiberglass you went through? getting ready to start a project and wasn't sure how much to get to start.

I bought a full roll of 1708 think it’s about 50 yards and I’ve used maybe a quarter of it. But what I’ve used most I bought roughly 50 yard rolls of 6” 12” and 17” 1708 “tape” which I’ve used the whole roll of 6” and two rolls of 12”. The 17” roll I’ve probably used half of it. Also have been through about 40 gallons of resin.

Little update just about 90% done with the hull coring with 1/2” Divinycell. Laid down a layer 1.5 oz CSM on the whole inside of the gunnel and stuck the Divinycell in it. Worked very well. Now going to go over it with probably two layers of CSM maybe a layer of 1708 inbetween the two top layers of CSM but that might be overkill. Very pleased with how it came out so far.

It has been a while since I've updated. Been busy with work, bought another boat, parents sold their house, crazy times.

All divinycell hull coring is glassed over and done.
Outside of transom is done.
Stern vent holes closed.
Front block for tow eye is 2" of Coosa and glassed in.
Next is bottom pieces for fuel tank, insulate fwd fishbox, and running pipes for rigging, fuel lines, fishbox drain, etc.

Here is what I took out from where the tow eye was and the Coosa one I made.

I'm about to dig into my bow eye! That's a lot of work on the hull sides, well done! I'm still jealous of your tent!

Had to move the rig (and the tent too) because our house is sold.
Can see the transom progress. Think it ended up being 9 layers on the outside wrapped around the sides and bottom. Inside has 6 layers. Should be sealed and secure as that’s the only wood in the whole boat.