'71 Seafari 20 Rebuild
 

I am not sure how much I will be able to keep up with his thread, but I will try and here goes.

I finally was able to get the materials together to begin working on my 1971 SeaCraft Seafari 20. I had already done the stripping down to the stringers, building a boat shed and researching materials. Now it was time to get to work.

First area is the transom. I was on the fence of hanging a 4 stroke off the transom or building a bracket. Transom won. I am going with 27 inches vertical at a right angle from a straight line off the keel. Measurements done. Rechecked twice and time to cut.

Next it was time to add the core. 2 layers of 3/4" Coosa 26. Thickened with Cabosil epoxy to mate them together and attach to the transom outer skin.

Fillets done with thickened epoxy with Cabosil again.

17 oz biaxial glass using epoxy. First layer on and it came out great. No air bubbles and you can see where there is the existing epoxy from patching the holes from clamping and adding the fillets. 4 layers of glass each tabbed in about a foot. A few air bubbles throughout, but nothing major.

I am working on the stringers now. 2"x3" vinyl gutters will be bedded on top of the existing stringers to raise them 2". Thanks for the idea, Tim. Foam shapes will be used to fill in the cutouts to extend the stringers to the transom. A couple layers of 17 oz glass to to it all together. Hopefully over the next couple of days I will have more pictures.

Looks like nice clean work and love seeing the 20 Seafari's restored. Is that a 25 or 30" transom? Keep up the great job.

Everything I have read said go 26-27 inches for the cutout height for a 25" leg motor. I went with 27. I figure it is easier to drop a motor down than to go up.

Foam plugs to extend the stringers are in and shaped. Next will be bedding in the vinyl gutter downspouts and glassing them in place. Hopefully over the weekend, but we shall see what reality is.

Nice clean work...your off to a good start...I think transom mount is the way to go as the boat will drive like it was intended to originally..

strick

I'm with Strick....looking real nice!! You should be proud of your progress! :)

Preserving Seafaris and Sceptres
 

Yes. Great to see Seafaris and Sceptres restored and preserved instead of being sacrificed for a CC!

I had considered making it a CC early on, but everyone here convinced me to keep it a cuddy. I am looking forward to having space for bags and gear, changing clothes, going to the bathroom, napping, etc. plus the wind and water break. 360 degree fishability is nice in a CC so we will see how it compares having just the stern. Anchoring will take a little more effort too I guess.

Yes, you made a wise decision! There are many advantages to the Seafari & Sceptre layouts that many CC guys don’t seem to appreciate, including MUCH more DRY storage. That opening windshield (which I’ve never seen on newer boats!) provides great protection when it’s raining and/or cold, but plenty of breeze when it’s hot! And the large cockpit provides much more room for diving, offshore trolling and socializing! There a couple of simple things you can do to address the less convenient bow access with a cuddy cabin:

1. Rig permanently mounted lines to the bow cleats and run them back & tie off to the stern cleats. Rig up 20’ stern lines with a snap hook in one end and an eye spliced in the other end. Snap them to the towing eyes in the transom and then coil ‘em up and hang on stern cleats. That way one person can easily handle both bow & stern lines when you approach a dock. And if you ever have to tow someone, you can make a great towing bridle by just putting the two stern line eyes together and hooking the towee’s anchor line to them! I also suggest installing a midship cleat, the same size as stern & bow cleats, adjacent to the helm where you can just reach over the side windshield to attach spring lines or fenders. You can also run the bow line from the midship cleat to the dock for short time stops like refueling, etc.

2. Install one of the large (~6” long) oval hawse pipes directly above the CENTER of anchor locker. (I carried 600’ of line for anchoring in 60-90’ over deep reefs, & the line will pile up quickly under the hawse pipe if it’s not not centered.) Remove the bow light (replace w/red & green LED lights mounted forward of cabin windows) & mount a roller bracket on the bow and install at least a 6-8” cleat between the hawsepipe and bracket. Attach about 20’ of chain to the anchor and install one of these https://www.overtons.com/windline-an...B&gclsrc=aw.ds restraint hooks to secure anchor in bracket. You’ll need to reinforce the deck to handle loads the anchor line can put on the roller bracket and center cleat. I used a couple layers of 1/4” plywood which were flexible enough to conform to conform to the deck curvature when wedged from below. (Search my posts for a thread I started showing details of how I did this.) Then you’ll be able to quickly deploy your anchor, which I consider a safety consideration if you ever lose power in a busy channel or when running an inlet! I found that it was easy to handle the anchor from the front hatch with the roller bracket, which eliminated the need to walk around to the bow in rough conditions. Or you could install a windlass, but I never found that was necessary on a 20’ boat, although it’s MANDATORY on my 30 ton DeFever with the 65# anchor and 200+ lbs of 3/8” chain!

3. If you install a VHF radio, put the antenna on the PORT side! Then it won’t be in your way when you’re scrambling around the Stbd side to get to the anchor!

Here are some photos of how Bushwacker rigged his Seafari. I have keep it the same. Even when I have the family out I always seem to be single handing. There is always a line available no matter what corner you need one. The hawse pipe/anchor roller are good advice too. The rode and chain fall right in when I pull up and the anchor stows quickly so I can get back to the helm.

Since you have the deck off, I would consider running the scuppers out the transom and crossing them. I think that would help keep the feet dry fish from the back.

Nice work! I see the cap is significantly different than my 1972 version. What are you doing for the front bulkheads?

I have heard this mentioned before and I do not know what it means. What is "crossing the scuppers"? My tentative plan is to have as large of scuppers as possible go straight out the back. Add some of the Gemlux duckbills to avoid water coming back in. That and the deck being 2" higher will hopefully mean dry feet, but I am open to this crossing idea if it works and is recommended.

By bulkheads I assume you mean the ones separating the cuddy area from cockpit area. I am going to glass in 1" Carbon Core honeycomb. Same material I am using for the deck. Below deck bulkheads in front of and behind the fuel tank will be glassed in 3/4" Coosa. Spare material from the transom core.

The stringers have the foam insulation inserts and vinyl downspouts epoxied in place and fillets done. Tomorrow starts the glassing. Hopefully, I will have pics of the completed stringers by the weekend. Then it is time to work on getting the tank in.

The hoses below deck are crossed. The port floor drain exits the starboard and vice versa. If you standing at one side in the stern, the exit for that drain is lifted on the other side. This is typical on sail boats which are heeled over much of the time.

Thanks for the explanation. Simple enough I guess, but would be more complicated for me since all four of the stringers would need to be cut. Plus the seating, engine well and bilge would need to be dealt with. Scupper entrance will be about two feet from the transom.

It took longer than anticipated, but that seems to be par for the course for me and working on the boat. The stringers are done with the foam insulation inserts to extend them to the transom, vinyl gutter downspouts on top to raise them 2" and add a conduit for wiring and 3 layers of glass covering. Very sturdy as I can stand on them with no flex.

I think my next task will be getting the cuddy squared away by filling in the existing one through hull hole and putting the original deck piece back in.

Figured I will give an update.

Nothing major lately just a lot of little things. I am working on filling in the existing thru-hulls now. Ground down the glass to a 12:1 taper and laying in the new. The raised stringers have been cut to length and tank pre-fit. The bulkheads for the tank have been cut out. The whole deck section for inside the cuddy has been cleaned up and I have the new core material; 1/2" Carbon-Core honeycomb. The last layers of glass have been added to the transom hole repairs. Grinding smooth will be next. I may do some fairing too.

I am looking forward to finishing fixing the thru-hulls and getting the cuddy deck back in place. That will be a good milestone. Then I can do the separating bulkheads and fuel tank. Progress.

Stringers look great. What type of glass are you using?

Ryan

They are getting there. The glass is 17 oz biaxial. I am using epoxy and didn't want to have to saturate chopped strand mat. I'd rather do a couple extra layers and get the strength from the glass.

Two more layers on the head thru hull patch on the outside and two on the inside. Inside layer on the kitchenette sink drain hole too. The transom patches are just about done. The lower unit keyhole needs one more layer in one small area. Sanding down nicely then they will be ready for fairing. That will wait until the rest of the hull is ready in the spring.

Speaking of that, anyone have any suggestions on the best way to get gel coat off? I will be painting. Or do I not need to worry about removing the gel and just fair, prime and paint over it?

Don't need to get the gel-coat off.
As long as its properly sanded and primed and doesn't have any structural issues (i.e. de-laminating, crazing etc.) you'll be fine.

That's good to know. I'll get more details when I get closer to that stage, but I'm happy to not have to strip all the gel off.

Yep. My gelcoat was sanded and thin. The PO put heaps of paint on it. I mean like textured walls... not smooth at all.

Sanded it again. Used a good primer. Sanded it. Painted it. Let cure. Cut and buffed it. If It can handle a buffer I figure that’s a real good sign.

Thru hulls are getting there. A little fairing and some paint and this one should be good to go.

looking good so far!

Thanks man. I wish I could still be out there every day working on her, but it is just too cold. The last thing I did was two weeks ago, laying up the last patch to the hull on the second thru hull up front and sealing up the transom core. I have not ground everything down yet though. I need at least 40 degrees so with my propane heater I can get it into the 50's. Hasn't happened here in MA.

What I have been doing instead is learning about wiring. I have a couple of books and then the internet has been a good resource. I laid out a rudimentary wiring diagram. 45 components to be wired together! I will be ready for spring to get back at it full time in hopes of a summer 2021 launch.

Well at least you’re doing what you can. Don’t feel bad the winter is the rainy season here. And by rainy, I mean some days or even weeks non-stop rain.

Keep doing what you can. Feel free to hit me up on wiring. That’s something I learned very well from my grandfather and father. Both electricians.

Always something, right? I found I do not like doing glass work when it is humid out. I do not like the consistency of the resin I have once mixed so I wait for dry days. Rodbuilding was the exact opposite. The guidewrap coating resin I used loved humidity. It would come out crystal clear and never crack.

As for wiring, I am still in the early stages of learning what I need to learn. I get the basics, but need to get the details and all the little tricks still. Luckily I have plenty of time. I will check in when I get closer as I am sure I will have questions. Thanks for the offer.

I almost went out today to do some grinding on the last of the raw glass laid on the thru hull. But the idea of laying on the ground even if it is covered in plastic in 34 degree weather was enough to nix that idea. I sharpened a few axes instead. I had the need to use a power tool. Haha

I truly admire you poor guys in the frozen tundra of the NE !!!
Today we are in shorts and T-shirt walking around outside, saying it is a little damp, maybe should put on a long sleeve T-shirt... :rolleyes:

Keep forging ahead, spring will be here before you know it !!

Just do not quit ..

It's been a minute since I updated this thread so I figured I should.

First we have the cuddy insert in. It has been completely recored with 1/2" Carbon-Core honeycomb. Thickened epoxy has been added all around the seam and next step is to add some glass. Those are Coosa supports around the step-in area.
Attachment 23675

Before that went in though I made a tray out of 3/4" Coosa for the batteries. Dual straps to keep the batteries in place. I may add more support when the time comes. 3" PVC pipe to run the battery cables to the helm area.
Attachment 23676

Now that I solved the issue of where the batteries can go I could work on the tank placement. It is as far forward as possible. This is the support structure in the tank tomb. My plan is to use 4200 at all the touch points to keep it secure.
Attachment 23677
Attachment 23678

I have also been working on removing all the pinstriping and stickers. Half way there. And getting the bottom paint off. Sanding is too slow. Mild chemicals are too slow. Time to step it up and use a mixture of lye I have read works. Unless anyone has any better suggestions. Then it is more structural work on the bulkhead separating the cuddy area from the deck, the helm and then rear seating/tankwell area and finally the deck.

Looking great! Back in my hot rod car days we used Aircraft Strip. Not sure it's available now. It would knock you to your knees if you tried it without a respirator but it worked.

Interesting bed for the tank. I used a solid plywood core deck encased in fiberglass with neoprene strips underneath the tank itself to insulate it from the deck, allowing for drain space and air circulation under the tank. By the way, I can't tell from the photos but will there be any way to have water/moisture run out of the coffin into the bilge?

This is something I thought long and hard about and decided to not have any access to the bilge from the tank tomb. Right or wrong, I do not want water to get in there. If there is condensation then the airflow should take care of evaporating it. There will be holes added to the tops of the stringers and also where the fuel lines access so I am hoping that will be enough. I did not want bilge water squirting up through holes in the bottom area.

agree 100%

That is a lot of great looking work! I'm glad my fuel cell is under my center console!

Man, this weather sucks. 45 degrees and raining during Memorial Day weekend. Today was supposed to be bedding in the tank day and trying out the lye gravy method for removing bottom paint. 45 is too close to 40 for using the 3M 4200. They recommend not less than 40 degrees. Then the last thing I want to do is mess around with lye laying on cold ground. Tomorrow is supposed to be in the 50's so I should be able to get after it then.

The partition separating the cuddy and deck on the port side came out great. 2 layers of glass on each side of 1/2" Carbon-Core. Some fine tuning and sanding and it will be ready for fairing and paint.

Almost all of the stickers are off. Just the pinstripes along the waterline left. Progress.

Latest addition. A whole summer's worth of work to get the splashwell and seating done. Man, I work slow. Coosa core and anywhere from two to five layers of glass depending on area. The Carbon Core seat hatches open up and I am thinking the starboard side will have the fuel/water separator down between the stringers and the port will have the raw water washdown and baitwell pumps. The only permanent thing in the bilge will be a bilge pump and it will be easy to get to from a nice bag hatch.

Time to move onto the helm. And the 150 4S came in after 17 weeks. :)

Nice work bro. It may be slow but it looks good. Interested to see how your plan for stern works out.

My crude mockup for the helm. Windshield is off now so time to get to glassing.