23’ seacraft complete rebuild
 

A couple months ago I began another complete rebuild and customization of a seacraft. My last build was a 20 that was featured in Florida Sportsman’s dream boat series. My intention with my current 23 project is to build the ultimate 23. I’ll try my best to add photos and keep you posted as to the progress.

I’ve watched a bunch of those. Which episode had your boat in it?

where are you located and please define ultimate...I have a 23 sitting in the backyard waiting for me.

I have to figure out how to post photos once again because they now want me to pay for photo bucket.

Below is the link to my starter seacraft. Since then I have learned a lot from many different custom sportfish builders and I hope it will be reflected in my new 23. Honestly the most important thing I learned is patients. It takes extra time to do it right.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mwYNLp7HAZI

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3256

A couple people started this as a “classic seacraft” project so it saved me some money and sawzall blades

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3258

The hull is braced to prevent twisting and the stringers were removed

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3259

The hull was ground and sanded with 60 grit, stringers were built from h60 2” foam with 2 layers of 1708, stringers were triple tabbed to the hull (one of which was a full wrap), coosa 20 was glasses in for fuel tank and bilge bucket shelf, sealed compartments were foamed.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3260

I needed to feel some progress to I cut the low density 1/2” coosa that would become the sole.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3261

The bilge and the forward fish box were sprayed with raptor liner. Reduces fairing and is almost bulletproof

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3262

Battening to draw out the new shearline and give her some curves

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3263

Shearline after the shaping but before the blocking

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3264

I cut the transom to the original crown but it seemed a little too aggressive like she was a Blackwell. I ended up taking out another inch of crown

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3265

The sole was glasses on the bottom and glassed to the hull sides as well as to cleats underneath. Then I began coring the hull sides with h80 1/2”.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3266

So the sole is glassed to the hull sides and then the cored sides were glassed to the sole. Holy sh$t did she just get strong.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3267

Easiest way to template “one off panels” it with door skin strips and a hot glue gun.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3271

PVC was bedded and glassed to the bottom of the hatch gutters. Now I can router as many drain holes in from the top that will allow the hatches that will be bone dry. The PVC will go to a hose that will go to a sump box in the aft bilge. All gutters and drains will be plumbed to this sump box so the bilges will stay bone dry. The sump box will also have a valve that will allow it to be used a a backup emergency bilge pump.

Note, I hate building gutters and hatches to a happily paid Jim Wells to build them for me.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3273


Quick wipe of fairing to make life easier once I build the gunnel caps

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3274

Spent the day drinking cold natty lights and figuring out the lines for the console and front lounge seat. The front backrest will be hinged to access the console and the lounge seat will be 2” insulated foam for the drink cooler.

Also almost every compartment on this boat will fit 5 gallon buckets. Nothing worse than a compartment that won’t fit a bucket.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3275

I scooped up a great livewell leaning post that I modified to accommodate llebroc seats. The console and leaning post will both be glassed and faired to the sole. Very little on the boat will be screwed together.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=3277

First time out of the shed after 2 months of hard work. She is starting to look like a boat.

That's some mighty fine work there! Can't wait to see the end product!

Super sweet! Keep the pics coming!!

What is your experience with Raptor liner on fiberglass? I've been wanting to do the same, but haven't seen it any info on how long it holds up on boats.

As for raptor liner, Bayliss Boatworks turned me on to it 3 years ago. They lined the anchor locker of the sportfish that I operate. It has had my anchor line and chain banging around in to for the last 3 years from Nantucket to Costa Rica and it still looks amazing.

That's what my friend sprayed on my 18 for nonskid. Practically bullet proof. Mixed in the paint so it's the same color as all the smooth surfaces. Very satisfied!

As nonskid- slippery at all? I would love to use it on a build to save on fairing.

It's like nonskid without grit. I'm 60 and I haven't had any problems staying upright.

Cap supports

Lots of long boarding

Building the coaming boards

High build on the sole and gunnels. 3 layers of 12oz biaxial to glass the cap to the hull.

Also I need convincing on whether to power her with a standard 300 Suzuki or a 350 dual prop. What does the internet think?

1. Which lower unit/prop would you rather hit a rock with?

2. The 350 is HUGE and is HEAVY. I helped mount one on a 24 silverhawk. The boat is stoopid fast and really stern heavy.

She is moving to paint
 

She is headed to holy city Boatworks for more sanding and paint.

I have been following your rebuild and see you have done a top shelf pro job Capt!
I have a few questions, as pictures are sometimes deceiving. 1.)What was your decision factor in installing spray rails? The 23' SeaCraft has never been known to require them when proped correctly and coupled with trim tabs. I have heard of few 20's having them being
removed later only after burying their nose.
2.)What calculations or measurements did you use when determining the length & placement fore to aft of the rails?
Thanks for a comeback
Chuck