1977 20' SF rebuild
 

I sold my 23' in June 2021 in an effort to downsize. I looked at numerous 20' and had all intentions of a 20' MA, but ended up with a 20' SF from about an hour South. The owner was transferred to Hawaii and the cost to ship the boat was out of sight. I sold the 115 SHO with 28 hrs. on it in 4 days and basically recouped my $$$.

Plan is to raise the deck, transom to 27", transom mount 150 (maybe), re-core fuel tank hatch and cap, repair console and gel coat from rub rail in. The other hatches are solid. I'll get the bottom paint blasted off and see what the outside needs. It appears to be original gel coat. I ordered a replacement tank today and so far have everything stripped off the boat.

Let the fun begin!

Looks like a nice find!

Just please don't finish before me.... already been lapped by too many.

Nice but what happened to the MA idea...

strick

Didn't find one that was a good candidate in a good time frame for me.

Has anyone made a mold of the master angler cap .

Good question! I may cut the liner to resemble an MA.

I am also interested in the "splash-well cover" if anybody has one.

I have a original splash well cover but it's for an MA

Cover
 

I have a original splash well cover but it's for a MA

If you're thinking of parting with it send me some pics and dimensions. reelescape1@yahoo.com

Why transom to 27"? For XL motor? Or jack plate?

Any plans for the console? I suggest a doghouse! Narrow one so that you can cast, as tee-tops just get in the way.

What tank did you go with? Are you doing the new EPA charcoal stuff? I ended up buying a plastic tanks from west marine (free shipping to local store) and an open ('traditional') fuel system... mostly for price but also because the new plastic tanks seem much improved. If you can find a modern constructed plastic tank set up for a traditional (non-EPA), its a little bit cheaper ($399 versus $1200). I was told that if your boat was made before 2011, you can use a traditional fuel tank system with no issues from the coast guard.

Ok, have fun!

25" four stroke

Original console will either be narrowed or replaced with a narrower one if I can find a decent one

Tank will be 3/16" aluminum, ~ 46 gallon from Speedy Tanks (Atlantic Welding)

...and 2 more inches of freeboard.

Cockpit depth question; The specs for a 20SF say minimum 20". I get 19 1/4" near the factory deck drain. What dimension are others getting?

Would anyone with a 20' SF be willing to get the above cockpit depth dimension please? And please add whether you have raised your deck and if so, how much? Thank you

I can check mine at lunch and get back to you. 73 unmolested floor. (I haven't started cutting yet.)

The strap is approx. 1 foot in front of the floor drains. 19-3/4" from deck surface, not gutter.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1641834259

Thank you sir!

Tank should be here Monday. Console is ordered, C&M in Fla 38" square outside of flange. Transom is in, 2 1" thick pieces of Coosa. Deck is out. Stringers will be tied-in to transom, gutted, re-poured, and raised. Question; What are pros and cons of foam outside the stringers as shown? My 23' was not like that.

Nice you aint fooling around there.That looks like a sloppy foam job whom ever did it prior to your acquisition. Myself I would leave the foam out and just re foam the inside of the stringers...it's just more weight and another place for water to get trapped...I've seen where the the underside of the cap has been foamed in some boats. as long as you leave enough room for the getting to the wiring and hardware. Looking forward to your progress and thanks for loading your pictures straight.

strick

Thanks Strick. I agree on those points to omit foam there. After a 10 hour round trip drive today I scored what will (I hope) become my leaning post/cooler/tackle center combo. I would never pay retail for a new one but I felt if I didn't fly and buy this morning I would miss this. I'll have pipe-work built to include a 3" riser. This puts the 2" cushion top at about 30". Sorry about the sideways pic.

When I did my 18, the foam outside of the stringers was dry, so I left it there. Had I seen any water seeping out, it would have been gone.

Stringers opened, foam removed and re-poured, fuel tank area replaced with Coosa. Fuel tank is ready to be installed after rear bulkhead and mounting tabs are completed and stringers raised.

Pro tip on fuel tank; when pre-assembling sender, cut one side of plug to prevent dropping shit in your new tank.

Nice looking work and you are moving right along. What did you coat the tank with..looks good.

strick

Atlantic Coastal Welding (Speedytanks.com) applied that epoxy coating.

price and gal size of tank if you don't mind sharing? What did you glue to bottom of tank?

I went with 46 gallon, 3/16" thick, one baffle, two pick-ups (spare, not running twins), WEMA sender, epoxy coated, aluminum 3/8" barb fitting, aluminum plug, two angle hanger mounts per side. Base on tank was $17.50/gallon. Order finalized 12/15, complete 2/3. That's a long time but if you take out 2 weeks around Christmas it's understandable. 1/4" neoprene attached with 3M 5200. The store only had tan colored 5200 so, tan it is! It's been a while since I installed a WEMA sender so PRO tip; the bolt pattern is ONE WAY ONLY, dry fit first.

Nice Build! Coming along nicely. Nice Fuel tank, its odd that 3/16'' isn't standard as it holds up so much better! I know what you mean about the anxiety working around where the sending unit goes. Maybe I missed it but what material is glued to the base of the fuel tank?

Thank you. 1/4" neoprene attached with 3M 5200

That tank looks almost too pretty to put below deck. That should last you a long long time. Your boat is looking great.

Update time....Excuse the sideways pics. Deck (1" coosa) is in and raised ~ 2-1/2", fuel tank coffin box and bilge gel-coated, splash-well area re-glassed to liner, cap re-cored with 1/2" coosa, large cut out near fuel hoses filled, splash-well large cut out needs filling, bilge hatch needs cut-out/install. Liner has been dry fit. Transom cap needs trimming/finishing, tank needs install but hatch is re-cored. Routed pvc pipe under cap for bow light wiring if I go that route. I'm leaning towards hard top with integrated Nav lights.

Sorry for the sideways pics. Iphone to desktop to CSC. Somebody school me on it cuz I've tried to change them.

Liner is in and mostly glassed. Next up bilge hatch, finish work, deck drains, holes filled, etc.

There's another 20' in the shop getting the full treatment; all coosa, bracket, etc. He's not raising the deck and is going back with vertical deck drains in the factory location.
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Lookin' good Cam...:)

When you save your pics to desktop open them with edit, rotate, then save..;)

Thanks Ken. Still struggling with right side up pics.

Progress.....welcoming UPS these days.

Tank is in and plumbed. Hatches are hinged and latched. Bilge hatch is lift out and I can squeeze in there....barely at 170#. Waiting on a gas shock for the fish box. Bilge pump is mounted. This week plan to install bilge discharge fitting/wiring, bow light/wiring, fuel filter, fuel hatch cover. Ordered a side and rear door for console. Cheers!

Did UPS also deliver the Yeti/Hogs Breath combo koozie with the Bud Light? If so I need to change UPS drivers! :)

Nice clean work sir! Don"t forget a touch of teak too earn the "Gucci Stamp"

Hopefully next time these are hooked together the boat is ready!

You should be ready for the Homosassa gathering...:)