1972' Seafari 25 Rebuild Project
 

Hello and thank you for the opportunity to be a part of the site!! I have officially "Stepped" into the family. :D

Introduction: I live in North Florida and grew up in Miami fishing/lobstering/spearfishing in the Biscayne bay area with a routine summer trip to Bahia Honda State Park camp ground. I have very fond memories of fishing on a 1974' - 23' Potter Seacraft (still owned by my dad ...since the late 80s) which is a treat every time we go out in it. Geographically it made the most sense to own a "shallow draft skiff" (Crystal River to Cedar Key) so I started with Classic Aquasport 222 as a fishing flatform that the whole family could also fish from... of which I have a few now. However, the itch to fish offshore for Mahi, Sailfish, etc. in the Keys led me on a search for a hull I could take to the keys with the wife and the boys (now 1 & 3 yr old's) to enjoy. Without further ado ....

Project:
I introduce to you my new (to me) 25 Seafari Project! I remember seeing a hull only project of a 25 Seafari for sale years back and really contemplated taking on the project but just wasn't ready for such an undertaking and the weight sensitivity seemed intimidating (this was about the time Sancha was listed for sale...i think). However, now having done fairly substantial fiberglass work on a classic aquasport, I am ready for such a project. I am actually planning on making it a CC but I am slightly on the fence with the classic rare nature of the hull.

Current State: Boat was a demo model used for Volvo Penta and showcased their Duo Prop Design (Outdrive is an 83' and the only thing that came with the hull (motor was removed prior to sale). Prior seller indicated that the boat sat for the last 31yrs. It was sitting in a field and slightly buried on a trailer from sitting for so long. Gelcoat on the hullside is actually in good shape but the gelcoat above the shear line inside the boat is in really bad shape. Most of the bottom paint came off with a pressure washer. The stringer structure seems really solid but all the bulkheads are rotted. The stringers are seemingly hollow which is different from my other Aquasport 222/240 hulls that are typically foam filled. However, the stringers are built like tanks! Very solidly built!

More to come...on to photos!!

Some Photos when the previous owner took ownership in approximately the 4th quarter of 2021 for good measure ...:D

Some Photos when i took delivery 12/31/2021...

Welcome.

I’d go after bulkheads and tabbing first. Raising your deck might be a good consideration and check your hatches for water logging. Betting that transom is bad too. Looks like much of the demo work is done.

I have lots of pics and just wrapping up my rebuild. And templates or whatever you might need. I wanted to keep the outboard too. The weight calculator here and my dealer talked me out of it. Never wanted the cc here. Conditions are too rough. Its your property but it breaks my heart.

The deck space I’ll agree all day on. Deck space and fish storage are a couple of pain points but some simple solutions out there.

Thank you!

Most of the tabbing to the tops of the stringer /bottom of deck etc look to be in good shape. The bulkheads seem to be accessible. However, the one up front is not other than through the hatch. Deck is solid but struggling to figure out how to reuse and make storage space within the deck.

You can access the farthest one up in cuddy like I did by cutting out a section to get to it and glassing it back in. It’ll make a loud bang as tension is released. Then you’ll have to wrangle it back in. I used jacks, weights, blocks of wood to wedge, clamp, and hold it together to glass back. Can’t tell I was there. I’m kind of wishing I’d taken cap off to do this but didn’t have ability or knowledge back then.

I’d also go back in time and put pvc tubes in bottom to act as drain tubes for water. Again something I learned through this process.

https://i.postimg.cc/CZ59q7vr/02-F19...-A5307-FA5.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/dhKWrcYR/D5B6A0...ACF0242ADC.jpg

Here’s how I got to one fore of fuel tanks.

This is a decent sized space perfect for dry bags or batts. I’m going to put a hatch in here.

https://i.postimg.cc/nj6KxqVK/B7B3F0...98ADDE7091.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/JD4SVnt4/BFCF07...C24-FE34-D.jpg

Storage:
I can’t find any space under deck for meaningful storage. That’s part of raising decks and why I’ll miss outboard idea. I have plans to put stuff under the cabin sole, put a hatch in there and under my grates by the cabin door.

Mid is out due to fuel tanks, aft is out due to engine, sides aft will take lots of work for very shallow access. I’m using coolers stored in cabin underway. and fish bags stern. I’m also going to put a swim deck on and use that area somehow.

I keep it pretty simple underway. Ditch bag, food bag, lure bag, ice cooler, fish bag. That’s about it.

Here’s my plan when I was going outboard.

https://i.postimg.cc/crRtS6mp/732817...3942BB5DAF.jpg

But the guys talked me out of that. I’m going to but a teak engine cover there with sound/thermal insulation on inside. But I’m losing a huge storage space.
There is lots of room in the cabin area. Look there. It originally had shelves on both sides of interior

The early safari had a combination sink/stove/cooler /seat option for the port seat . I’ve seen pictures of and was amazed by its enginuity .I would think with a bit of thought doing something similaron the starboard side seat a lot of storage would be made available.I’ve seen some amazing tackle stations in small center consoles.

Yeah. I was looking at that once upon a time too.
Blue heron did something similar but all his pics are gone now.

https://i.postimg.cc/kD4sJnnQ/BFD45-...91-E3-D549.jpg

The cabin port side has a flip up compartment for head and a cushion on top
Starboard cabin has a door lower and a shelf above. I plan to put a camp stove in storage that I can utilize on long trips on deck and I have a perc. Coffee maker for my overnight trips.

I looked pretty hard at those above but decided I’d save deck space. And have stuff I can move around.
I thought about flip down storage, transom storage, deck storage, I’ve given up and going to make original work for me and once I boat for while make changes.

Biggest things are the teak racks and adding gaff holders in cockpit on sides for me. I got rid of my fighting chair and will probably replace with teak rocket launcher table.

As you noted storing above seems much easier than storing under.

Welcome Glaucus,

Lotta work, but its a great hull.

I'd go very carefully with the center console idea. That requires removing a lot of weight forward and will substantially change the cg in a bad direction. Especially with an outboard, it will be very difficult to get the cg right and that is much more important in this hull than other Seacrafts.


There is a huge amount of info in these forums. Strick and BlueHeron both published extensive rebuild threads. Me too. You are already hearing from our Hawaiian brother

Ask and you shall receive, really good information.

Quote """"" I'd go very carefully with the center console idea. That requires removing a lot of weight forward and will substantially change the cg in a bad direction. Especially with an outboard, it will be very difficult to get the cg right and that is much more important in this hull than other Seacrafts"""""""

Thats' why Potter never had the 25' CC hull in production. He told me one day " We just couldn't get it right"

Maybe its a shot in the dark but here are my thought for what they are worth (I am all ears for feedback)

Add a 40 gallon water tank (constantly filled) center and low forward and two (2) maybe 75-85 gallon fuel tanks down in the center tucked to the face of the main v berth or even further forward (the current tanks are about 12'' tall sitting 3'' below the main deck and ending only about 9ft from the face of the transom (where the footwell begins). The existing tanks rest on a raised subdeck below the main deck so lowering them further would therefore lower my CoG down in the hull as well. Removing the cabin would also in theory lower the CoG further down in the hull.

There is a extreme differance in the Deadrise from the 25' Seafari & the 23' CC ! A layover schmatic of the two hauls is on this sites" previous posts, which I can' t locate at this point. Advise you to research further.

I sincerely wish you well but IÂ’ve given up trying to even put outboards on her. Let alone what youÂ’re toying with. Even my local merc dealer whoÂ’s played with these said donÂ’t do outboards. Go I/O. ThatÂ’s astounding to me.

I’ve torn this area out. There was 1/2” piece of plywood and some float foam down there. The rest is a. Extreme v with stringers. You won’t be able to lower the tanks much. Your biggest issue is adding/moving weight forward without making it ride like a dog or exceeding it’s weight recommendation. Checkout terrys outboard cg tool. That’s what won me over.

https://i.postimg.cc/QKG47fW7/1A73DC...E8485A22F4.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/wtwcQbnx/B2-EB0...BBBC708732.jpg

Raised my center stringer to make a flat shelf for tanks. Not pictured are some mini bulkheads underneath for lateral support. But not to keel for drainage.

https://i.postimg.cc/62bbDdTR/28-F7-...E1-C27-FE5.jpg

I said all you said about 5yrs ago. Fresh water tanks (this will be hard unless you do a bag) , lead ingots, hard top, trim tabs. I even have valves to pull fuel from stern tank first. ultimately gave up and decided to do a restomod.

Yes sir the 23 is a 20 degree hull with the 25 at 25.5 degrees. I’m the kind of person that will find every bit of information before I get started so I have a long road ahead of me. I did start a few months ago and have read about Navatek studying them. Hope to get in touch with him soon.

Here is an idea for a cc.. Jackshaft a diesel to an outdrive, move the engine as far forward as possible. Navetek did something similar. That might get the horizontal cg right. The 25s ride is so good that a cc with an extremely far forward console would work, comfortwise. Leave lots of fishing room as well.

Xcomunic8d,

Thank You! You are correct. There isn’t quite as much space from the existing plywood subfloor to the top of the keel stringer as I thought from when I was looking around the other night. I would agree that a raised keel stringer for a shelf would be in order across the top of your the lower stringers. I don’t doubt that an I/O would produce the absolute best ride.

Thank You for the input Sir! I like the idea of the console being slightly more forward than maybe typical but I don’t plan on sticking with an outdrive. I did ride in a Custom 31 Contender Openfish with a single Yanmar and straight shaft in about 1999 and absolutely loved that boat!

Does anyone know of someone in Florida with a Seafari 25? Curious to chat with them and maybe take a ride in one for my research.

I don’t know of anybody but I’d listen real closely to the guys here. Many of them spent time discussing the design with the designer personally. Terry, nobones, flexpat, and I’m sure I’m leaving guys out.

Also navatek or bigfluke? did serious research on this hull for USN.

Guys who owned this boat
Strick, Cdavisb, blue heron and 6stretch2, ?? Sorry if I’ve left anybody out…

Here’s some vids. This is how I did the same research you’re doing. The boat likes weight forward.

Note the ride on this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ln3Y1A_RNCM

And note the ride in this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aR5yg-LfFI

I did all kinds of math jumping jacks and wound up moving cg back 12” no matter what on calculator. Flexpat says you can get to 6” but would need serious freshwater up front. 90 gallons? And a single outboard. Even that is just too much in my opinion- cg compromise and weight add for too little return.

I’m no marine engineer but there are guys here who are.

Found this rendering done from here on this site. Surely it’s a rough draft but seems like it can be done. I don’t think any hull will ride “better” with an outboard but considering I don’t think I’m capable of going the I/O route if I was honest, I would be happy with the outboard route.

snook295 bought my 25. He is in Key West, but doesn't show up on CSC that often. PM me for a phone number

25 Seafari ride
 

Ahoy,

I have Connor's old boat and she's still in great shape. I put about 160 hours on her since last March. She's listed for sale on Craigslist as I'm sadly moving on from the paradise which is the FL keys. No complaints on the hull, the cabin was a game changer with my young children and I also added an "Admiral approved" 34" leaning post with back rest.

If the weather is good I'll be bottom fishing at the end of the bar or trolling. If the weather is poor, I'll still give a ride to anyone that wants to see what the 25 is all about.

Reach out to me here or via Craigslist. Or PM Connor on here--Thanks!

Brock

Yeah, I put that together in Solidworks. Anything can be drawn, but not everything actually works. That is an image from a full 3D CAD model with calculated CG and moments of inertia. Short version is that hull needs an I/O or a light OB w a long shaft on the transom (no bracket); a bracket moves the CG too far aft and it will probably take major hull rework to get it right. Think multiple iterations. The 400lb of iron shown in the forefoot of that image wasn't enough. If memory serves me, guys that tried bracketed OBs on this hull usually ended up with over 600lbs in the forefoot before cutting losses and selling.

Dave, AKA Blue Heron..
Lives around Gainesville, FL.

He used to be on here on a regular basis, now once in a while.
Send him a PM, if no response get with me for a cell number.

Thanks for the reference Connor!!

Thank you very much for the offer! I’m in Ocala,Fl. and wouldn’t have a clue how I could convince my wife to drive down there for a “boat ride”. Although, I did somehow convince her to having four (4) boats so maybe I have a shot, haha!

Too bad you have to part with it.

Glaucus,

If she doesn't sell. She'll be in Oak Hill this Summer. Much shorter drive!

On our way to Disney two years ago from Washington DC, I convinced my wife to divert 6 hours and swing thru North Atlanta to look at a boat. Bought it!

Thanks for the quick feedback! Those bracketed outboards have the cabin and stock fuel locations?

Thank You!! Oh wow I would have never imagined one would be so close. :D

I haven't even really used my MAG 350 MPI yet, but if/when it blows up, I am thinking of a 2GR-FE Toyota. All aluminum 3.5 liter V6, close to 300HP and about half the weight. It would be a total project, but with 4V/cylinder, I think it would run WOT all day long without burning exhaust valves. And it's a die cast aluminum block. Lotus gets 400HP out of it with a supercharger. And it's the engine out of a Camry.

Would they actually make the torque needed though?

I’d be concerned about that torque curve. It’s more a tow truck engine than a dragster. But I’d be interested to see the results regardless fishstretcher. That L92 6.2 LS is a beast and has an aluminum block. The ability to get bbc numbers out of a small block is amazing today. Also, Volvo is now using LS blocks.

One other thing to consider on that bracket. I always thought my transom was rotted due to poor fiberglass 1 layer of 6oz cloth with holes is not the best plan.

https://i.postimg.cc/hfVgbnHp/B09543...0093E6D4A6.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/4nvZZ8jp/E1-FDE...6937-D9-AE.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/LYmv7tXJ/CDF360...4453898210.jpg

But I couldn’t figure out why there were so many drain plugs on the boat. There had to be nearly 10 onboard. 1 in each drain area on deck and then several in storage boxes and the one on the stern had a wire keeping it there when not in. A couple of months ago it hit me that my boat was so stern heavy, he had to put drain plugs in deck drains to keep water out.

They likely seeped along with the transom and the water got down in bilge and caused my rot issues (or at least helped it along). Food for thought on your project.

WOW that brackets looks to be made from 2x lumber and fasteners.

Yes, that's WAY closer! We shall see then, thanks for the offer!

So after much thought and research, I have decided to keep the cabin and keep it pretty close to original. However, I am going to be adding the shortest flotation bracket possible and a 300hp 4-Stroke Outboard. I have experience with Gelcoat and much more prefer it so that is the route that I will also be taking here throughout with a complete refit.

The bulkheads will need replacement but the deck and stringer system look to be solid as a rock. I will be installing a fuel tank below the cabin deck to shift the CoG forward as much as possible. The bulkhead (fore & aft of fuel tank compartment) replacements might actually give me the access I need to install the fuel tank and building myself out of that area (we shall see though). Not sure how I would install and strap a large 100 gallon tank without deck access. There will be a lot of unusable space below deck from going to an outboard and a lot of above deck space gained in the process so I would like to plan some in deck boxes/hatches for storage and maybe a livewell. However, careful placement of live vs. dead loads (coolers, seating, fuel, livewell etc.) is going to be my focus. I have thought about a ballast system but not quite sure how the installation of that would go.

With the majority of boating/fishing being out of the west coast of Florida, an Aquasport will be more readily used and my next finished project. However, when the kids get a little older and grow some sea legs, we will take it down to the keys for some week long stays in the spring/early summer and ill be able to run out offshore and catch some big ones. :) Maybe even take it to the Bahamas following my brother in his 32 Stamas Express... and show him whos boss....LOL!

Glad to see you keeping the cabin. I loved mine.

When redoing bulkheads, make sure you address a weak spot in the 25s design, not enough bulkheads forward of the forward tank bulkhead. It needs at least one and maybe 2 and should tie both main stringers and the inner liner together, so they can support each other. Blue Heron figured this out why this is true and will have a wealth of knowledge on how to fix it. There is so much room under the cap that you can do all of this without pulling the cap (personal experience).

Thanks for the Input!

I have read about this and have talked to X on here about it. There is just over 7ft between the bulkhead in the center and forward. :eek: Immediately I found it odd how the center stringers were lower down in the hull with very little if at all attachment to the structure. I do see a fuel tank platform and the loose filled foam under the cabin area but don't feel those were structural components as designed. All items poorly placed due to a lack of drainage causing rot as most already know. I don't even think there was glass laid up on the plywood in the center of the bulkhead (maybe just coated in resin?) Some photos of the rear (engine compartment) and midship bulkheads (obviously shot).

Much better plan brother. Get after the basic stuff then work on the other stuff between times. Get that oscillating saw going and save bulkheads as can for templates.

Bulkhead's look about like mine did. And what Connor said. Plenty of room to work under there but gonna be sore, cuts, bruises, itchy is just part of it. Herons pics are gone but he made a small bulkhead and a platform with a bilge pump using pink foam and epoxy. I miss his pics that was a wealth of knowledge.

I’ll give you 2 of my big regrets
Better Drain tubes under deck
Rigging pvc tubes under deck

As we discussed raise the center stringer and Add small bulkheads between stringers for a platform for the fuel tanks.

Id suggest only do 1 bulkhead at a time they are toast but they do add rigidity and you don’t want it twisting on you.

Good luck templating. Cardboard worked best for me. Cardboard to 5mm board sanded and shaped. Then cut out coosa. And glassed in.

Yeah I see a lot of crawling, aches, and bruises in my futures….I’m use to the itch already, Lol.

It’s funny you mentioned the drains and rigging tube because I have a plan to drain the low cockpit areas with under deck drain pipes either back to the bilge or directly to thru hull. There doesn’t seem to have ever been a pathway other than through the cheap thin bulkhead at the transom so going below deck and below the cabin will be likely. Seems like just forward of the helm is a good spot for batteries. Don’t know about them all to one side.

I was planning to lay a piece of Coosa directly on the center stringer and tab it to the sides (do you see any issues with that?) of the stringers so I gain some depth, structure, and give me a platform off the hull bottom to rest tanks.

I miss blue-heron’s pics. Those were a wealth of knowledge.

I made some semi circles out of pvc for drainage on the bulkheads. Strick and others have some good ideas on that. I’ve seen others glass work here that just amazes me. I’ve had to learn the hard way.

My rigging tube is a fairly large piece of gray electrical pvc conduit run under the gunwale. I put one of the biggest I could in there. 2.5”? Got that one from DonV I think.

I wouldn’t try to go out sides with drainage unless on bilge pumps. It’s below the water line and uphill with not a lot of room. I’m trying to put bilge pumps fore and aft. 1 fore and 2 aft on manual and auto float switches. I’ll probably add a little landing pad in there like blue heron did to collect water and mount the bilge pump fore.

What you’re suggesting is how I raised my center stringer to be even with the other 2 to give me a landing surface for fuel tanks. Add some mini bulkheads in there. Leave space for drainage though down the middle.

I tried to wrap my center stringer in 1 continuous piece of glass like an upside down u. In retrospect I should’ve taken my router and done a 1/2” round over on the top of it. I did round it over (1/4”?) but not nearly enough. I ended up wrapping it with 2 pieces like an L with about 3” of overlap and did 3 layers over my coosa.