transom (Mako)
 

First of all, great site. I migrated over at the recommendation of classicmako.com and others. I am "restoring" a 90 Mako 250 Walkaround, twin 150s. Really just resealing all hatchs, rewiring, replumbing, scraping out old foam around fuel tank, new fuel hoses, etc. Nothing like the structural stuff many of you are doing-very impressive. My question concerns the transom. Please help if you can. Thanks
dave ddalu@comcast.net
When I removed all the trim tabs, transducer mounts etc from the transom, one of the #8 screws used for cable transducer tie downs (below water line, very near the drain plug hole) leaked about a quart of water. All the other holes were dry, including the transducer mount holes below. The transom is not soft, seems very solid by my unsophisticated testing. Any thoughts?

[ November 07, 2002, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: culley06 ]

Re: transom (Mako)
 

I would drill it out with a 3/8" bit. Only go in about 3/4 inch into your transom. This will allow any more water to come out for shore. If the rest of the transom is dry and solid then just prep the hole after sufficient drying time and epoxy it. If you are really worried, you could drill 2 or 3, 1/4 inch inspection holes an inch or two below the wet area for peace of mind. If they are dry, you are out of the woods, if they seep, you might still be ok, if water squirts out; well let's not get ahead of ourselves. Try it and get back to me.

Re: transom (Mako)
 

Brian
Thanks for the reply. I will drill it out. If after drilling the hole and no water comes out, how can I know whether the rest of the transom is dry? Note that the holes below the culprit were dry, but maybe they need to be drilled out to be sure as well. Thanks again. Any other thoughts from the Master (Sea)Craftsmen?
dave

Re: transom (Mako)
 

culley06,
You could use an electronic moisture detector. Alot of marine surveyors have them, and you might be able to find someone that would inspect just the transom for you. It would be worth 50-100 bucks for peace of mind. I bought one after I had a few concerns about my transom, and fixed some minor problems. I use the meter a couple of times a year to make sure everything is staying dry.

[ November 07, 2002, 01:05 PM: Message edited by: JohnB ]

Re: transom (Mako)
 

culley06,

A quart of water is a lot of water in such a small space. I would think the best thing to do is drill 1/2' holes using a forestner bit in the area that has bottom paint. Assuming it is painted, you could do the inspection without creating a mess in the "finish" area. A moisture meter won't tell you a thing unless you get "into the wood" It's like trying to take your temperature against your shirt. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Re: transom (Mako)
 

I had the SAME problem took My trim tabs off & water poured out !I drilled a few 1/4" holes from the inside & wet wood.If its wet in a few places ? I'm putting a New transom in now.My old one came out& was in really bad shape everywhere a hole was drilled before.

Re: transom (Mako)
 

EBEACH,
Don't know what you were using for a mosture meter, but the GRP meter will find moister penetration in wood or synthetic coring material. It will find moisture if water is trapped in a section of the hull. Check out http://www.jroverseas.com/modelgrp.htm for specs. This is what the insurance, warrantee, survey, and manufacture industry uses. It is the best way to evaluate water penetration in any material. It only looks for water, and can see 'thru' glass.

Re: transom (Mako)
 

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to drill some holes this Sunday and I will get back with the reports. I fear that this project is going to end up bigger than I expected. I bet no one else here ever had that problem. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
dave

Re: transom (Mako)
 

culley06
I had a similar situation .....I feel your pain...a little scary when, in my case, the stream of water coming out of the transom seemed to be under pressure.....I got out about 8 oz....for me the transom will be restored very soon....I'm certain it could never be totally dried out..even though it is solid ..hence the wood will continue to break down..I would rather know for sure the condition of the transom rather then always second guessing it.

Re: transom (Mako)
 

BriGuy
Well, I drilled out the hole that gave me problems, and just a few drops came out after I put a heat lamp to it for a few hours. I also took out the brass tube of the drain plug and the wood is wet on the surface, but angled drilling shows it to be solid. The holes above these two are dry. I think (hope) I can dry everything out with the heat lamp. I know that I eventually will need a new transom, but not for a bit yet is my feeling.
Any thoughts?
thanks
dave