The Famous Potter Built Rotten Transom
 

CSC"S,
I was fixing a few items in my engine area of my 20sf cc I/o, when I noticed a cracked stringer near the transom. I removed the hoses that drain thru the stringer and also removed some water.
I then cut the top of the stingers to get out the waterlogged foam, not as bad as anticipated, but i noticed that the transom was not tabed on to the hull in side the stringers.
A little more prodding indicated a mushy transom.
What a major PIA. The I/o has seats molded in the rear of the boat, i am trying to remove the back part of the cap to get at the transom for a interior repair. I hope to make a few pics of this project.
Has anyone used a structual foam as a transom replacement? I used a coosa product for the recoring of all the hatchs, and i think the make a product with layers of glass, interspersed for lack of a better word. i will investigate and keep updated.
Covered in fiberglass dust,
JW

Re: The Famous Potter Built Rotten Transom
 

JW

I'm knee deep in a a refit of my 1974 20cc. My transom was soft, and I decided to convert the 20" cut-out to a full transom with a bracket. I did an exterior job, since the skin was cracked at the corners of the cut-out.

To answer your question, I used a carbon/composite material called "Penske Board" as the core. It's dark grey in color, easy to cut (wear a mask!), and I used single piece 1 1/2 thick, (along with fiberglass cloth inside and out, and a prefabed 1/4" sheet for the outside skin). This stiff is strong! and much lighter than plywood. And with all the glass I have on top of it, I feel confident shooting a screw into it (I'll keep you posted, since I haven't mounted any hardware yet, worst case I'll thru-bolt).

There are some pics floating around this site of my boat, and I'll be sending more since I have my B-Bracket bolted on, and this week I should install the new fuel tank.

Good luck!

Lloyd