73' Potter-Built 20' Transom
 

All,

I just recently picked up a 1973 SeaCraft 20' CC w/ a 1985 175HP Evinrude VRO on the back. I'm trying to determine if the transom is in decent shape. How do I determine if it needs work or needs to be replaced? Thanks

Re: 73' Potter-Built 20' Transom
 

Stella Blue1, Welcome to the clan. There are several ways to determine the condition of your transom, some are less invasive than others. The simplest way would be to tilt your engine all the way up, then bounce up and down on the lower unit. If the transom flexes you have some work ahead of you. The other method would be to take a 1/4" drill bit and start exploring from the outside. I would first check around any fasteners that you may have such as engine bolts. If the shavings on the drill bit come out wet and mushy then you have a project for this winter. GOOG LUCK!!!

Re: '73 Potter-Built 20' - Transom
 

Thanks. I really love the boat. I'll give it a shot. I appreciate the info!

Re: '73 Potter-Built 20' - Transom
 

Happy Birthday!

Re: '73 Potter-Built 20' - Transom
 

Thanks.

Re: 73' Potter-Built 20' Transom
 

If I do determine that the transom needs work, what are your thoughts on core drilling the transom and filling the holes w/ epoxy to add strength to the transom? I found the following on rotdoctor.com...does this sound like it would be adequate and effective?

Outboard Transom Repair


Drill 1/4" holes across the top of the transom, about 5 to 7 inches apart and allow the interior to air dry.

Drill a drain hole at the bottom.

After the interior is dry, inject the CPES™ into the holes, recapture excess at the drain hole, and re-inject.

Allow at least two weeks for the CPES™ carrier solvents to evaporate away.

Close the bottom drain hole with Fill-It™ epoxy filler.

Using a turkey baster, flow pure mixed Layup and Laminating Resin™ into the holes. Keep applying it until the holes will accept no more.

Let cure 24 hours.
Close the holes with Fill-It™ epoxy filler.

Sand smooth and apply a water-barrier paint.

Re: 73' Potter-Built 20' Transom
 

Without ever having used that product, I would guess that at best you are looking at a temporary fix. When I tore my transom apart (1975 20' sf) there were areas where the plywood looked pretty good and areas where it looked like worm dirt. I just cant see how one could effectively dry the inside core material out and then saturate it good enough with epoxy to make a substantial difference.

Re: 73' Potter-Built 20' Transom
 

Stella Blue1, I would have to agree with Will that what you are talking would be the kind of repair to get you through the season. When you pour any kind of resin into holes the way that you described it I can't believe it would saturate into all the wood. Also resin on it's own doesn't have that much strength. You can break it with your hands, however when you add some kind of fiberglass to it like matt, 1708, 1808,fabmat,etc.. you get alot of strength from it. Remeber the resin, whether it be polyester or epoxy,is just the binder for the glass.

Re: 73 Potter-Built 20' Transom
 

Well, I hopped up and down on the lower unit, and I did notice just a little give (flex) in the transom...very slight, but I'd have to think that even a totally healthy transom would give a little w/ a 195 lb person hopping on a 500+ pound motor...I also noticed that there are a few 1/2" stress cracks in the corners of the lower horizontal part of the transom to the left and right of the motor mount. I'm just not sure when this becomes a safety issue...Would it be safe to assume that I may be able to get a few more years out of the transom before it poses an issue? I'd like to get a season or two out of her before replacing the transom. Any suggestions?

Re: 73 Potter-Built 20' Transom
 

When it comes to questions of safety no one on this board can adequately evaluate your boat's transom. ( from here)Where you live in RI is boat repair heaven. Have a glass person take a look at your transom in person.