Classic SeaCraft Community

Classic SeaCraft Community (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/index.php)
-   General (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=4)
-   -   cap/hull separation (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=22950)

GroveGuy 07-11-2011 09:03 PM

cap/hull separation
 
Fellow Seacraft aficionados,

Well it appears that I am having separation between my hull and cap about halfway down the starboard side once again (after having this re-riveted about 2 years ago). Are there any opinions out there on how to fix this correctly once and for all?

rivet and then glass the seam?
rivet and 5200?
any suggestions are appreciated.

BTW, Boat is a '69 SF with no access to gunnels from the inside.

thanks!
GG

Blue_Heron 07-11-2011 09:35 PM

Re: cap/hull separation
 
There shouldn't be that much stress on the hull to cap joint. The repeat of the failure may point to other structural issues. Have the transom and stringers been redone yet? I think the 69s had wood cored stringers, but not sure if the core was structural.
Dave

GroveGuy 07-11-2011 10:31 PM

Re: cap/hull separation
 
Thanks for the response.
The transom was rebuilt a few years ago and is solid as a rock. As the old transom was removed, i inspected the stringers and did not notice any issues- no rotted wood/solid glass and fully intact. The deck has a slight 'creak' in one spot, but i'm not sure i would consider it in trouble and hope to get at least another 5 years before considering recoring it. Could this be a suspect cause of the problem?

BTW, I wouldn't consider the previous hull/cap riveting repair a quality job and am looking for recommendations to have it done correctly.

htillman 07-11-2011 10:54 PM

Re: cap/hull separation
 
I would use screws that are fully engaged. I used 5200 as a bonding agent as I screwed the deck to hull together. Then let dry for at least a week. Then installed the rubrail with adequate bolting through both upper deck and hull. I did use a small amount of silicon on the rubrail as it was installed. I do not like rivets - either screw or through bolt if you can access.
ET

GroveGuy 07-12-2011 06:57 PM

Re: cap/hull separation
 
Thanks for the input ET - Just curious as to why the preference on screws? I always assumed rivets would be preferred - Although screws would be an easier fix due to no access from the inside.

Any thoughts out there on glassing over the seam or is 5200 the general consensus way to go?

Islandtrader 07-13-2011 09:55 AM

Re: cap/hull separation
 
Just a statement of fact!

The Moesly 21 is riveted and then the entire hull inside is glassed to the cap. After 47 years and 2000 hours of engine time no separation.

If you use screws sooner or later they will back out.

I am sure Eddie has his reasons and will pipe in. :D

Fr. Frank 07-13-2011 11:28 AM

Re: cap/hull separation
 
Quote:

Just a statement of fact!

The Moesly 21 is riveted and then the entire hull inside is glassed to the cap. After 47 years and 2000 hours of engine time no separation.

If you use screws sooner or later they will back out.

I am sure Eddie has his reasons and will pipe in. :D

Terry's right. You can rivet, screw, or bolt, but if you also glass the cap and hull together: Happiness!


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:45 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft