Seacraft motor
 

Here's a mid 80's? (I have to ask mechanic) v4 Johnson 140 vro
I was told the lower unit is more of a 6 cylinder unit. I have no idea. Supposedly, it was "overhauled" last season and I am calling the marine center that did the overhaul.
If you guys don't mind, let me know what you think. I was told the prop is 15x17.

THANKS!!!

The serial No. will tell you what year the motor is. Looks like it sat in the water a long time! How well does that power trim work? I wouldn't want to have to overhaul that power trim unit - primary tools required would be Kroil, the acetylene wrench and an air chisel! (Ask GFS how much fun that is!) Did you find out what size prop is on it?

The V-4 block is just the V-6 block with 2 cylinders cut off, so the V-4's with V-6 lower units are common, especially on the modern 25" motors.

Looks like an EZ Loader trailer under it with the good new style rollers; good stout trailer, just check springs and rear X-member for rust. I finally replaced my rear X-member after 25 years because it was looking ugly, but it still had pretty decent wall thickness. Original thickness was 3/16" and it still hadn't rusted all the way through! Denny

Prop
 

I was told the prop is 15x17 (if that makes sense). So...for someone with not a lot of extra cash to fix a motor, is this a dangerous gamble? I'm calling the "rebuilder" today to check the history...hopefully I will get an honest answer.

I bought the first 140 "looper" my local dealer sold back in 1985. Used the crap out of it for seven years. Those pictures bring back some good memories. Great engine.....except......the first year model did not idle very well and they had some filter issues with the VRO. It's like all old technology carbed engines, loves it's gas, but heck it was only $.85 a gal back then!! Yes it did have the V6 lower unit.

I know it's a $$$$ issue, however if the boat is what you want upgrading to a newer engine when you can afford it is the way to go. A 150 eTec would be nice :) Good luck.

GFS in the on deck circle.
Batter up!

The TnT manifold is 1600 clams. A good quality motor is 180-240. The shafts are 70 + 90.

Unless you are a very good clammer, I would think of another line of work.

I can`t begin to tell you how much I wanted a real torch.

"It can`t be done with MAPP gas". This was a recurrrrrrrrring earworm.

Oh, the horror.

I started out slowly and patiently. Spray and whack. Brass drift and a three pound sledge.

Over and over and over. Every morning. Every night. Every hour on weekends.

I got a fresh water unit and bang. I kept my old one as it is going to be in a thread.

The fresh water unit was a mop and glow. Chineeese motor and Rustoleum.

How to build a TnT to last. coming soon.

Rosebud.

WTF did he say!

RE BigLew
 

I think he said "stay away from that engine!":eek:

Sandy is a little cryptic sometimes, but I think he said that if/when the Trim n Tilt system craps out, the replacement parts alone will cost more than the engine is worth, so just plan on looking for another used engine at that point! With a freshly overhauled powerhead, you could sell it for parts.

I`m coming for my neon sign.

Brother Paul stroked a check for 2600 clams for his`96 250 ox66 TnT job.

GFS peeled out 72 for a seal kit. 180 for an Arco motah. {US}
Zinc chromate primer. Bedliner spray bomb :secret weapon to make em last......
and factory white spray bomb. 110 for new tilt ram cap.

And more hours than I care to count,
GFS

Erick,

Check your e-mail for an update on that 140. My dealer said it's worth less than $1000.
Denny