Rub Rails
 

Time has come to order rub-rails :D

After talking to a few suppliers I am now more confused than when I started.:(

Here is my two part question.

Do I want a rigid or a semi rigid rub rail :confused: Pros or Cons. Plus I would like to have a s/s insert.

Second part do I screw or rivet the rub rail in?

Thanks,

Good questions. I don't know. I do know some of the screws in mine have backed their way out over time thus pushing out the insert. I'll machine screw with lock nuts the next time. It will be a royal pita.

You know the drill.

Pilot hole.

Countersink in reverse to start.

Rivets will cause spiders to invade your Twin Vee.

I saw cap gaps of over an inch filled with insert your caulk here. Bad factory tour. Nothing but chop guns. English was broken.

I can taste your pride. Drill and tap? Machine screws?

You may consider a hard rail if you wan`t a rail with an insert.

Cheers,
GFS

I just put J B Weld on the screws and they hold fine until the edge of a dock rips them out again - new straight screws rinse and repeat

I have the 2 piece black and its tough and easy to put back in after a dock rips it out, no complaints when the screws loosen up J B Weld and their good again, never had the ss insert

Never thought about the rivets potentially causing spider cracks. I do like rivets because they are cleaner. I've done both ways and cant really say that one is way better then the other. On the rub rail I used rigid with the ss concave insert (ss4510). You will have to use a heat gun to bend around the corners and a rubber mallet on the ss insert. Your boat is going to be a little tricky with the ss insert but it sure will look nice when it's all finished. If the ss insert does not work out the you could always glue a piece of rope in there :)

http://tacomarine.com/ccp51/media/im...e/V21-9613.pdf

strick

Strick I sent a picture of the boat to Alan at rubrails.com and he said the s/s insert should be no problem. :eek:

I have a solid SS rubrail that is screwed in. Nothing fancy to hold the screws. In the last 7+ years the rubrail has taken some abuse and still shines like new. No loose spots or dents. Putting JB weld on every screw will make removing it a nightmare!

It really makes the boat "pop". Bending it around the bow and rear corners is going to take some patience. I purchased the rubrail at Marine Surplus in Sarasota for a very reasonable price.

picture
 

can you post a pic of your rails??

Doc learned something from the slacker? This is exciting. I will have to print this out and frame it. It will reside in a place of honor next to my Franklin Mint Civil War memorabilia.

Our old neighbor had a Nautica cat and it did ride sweetly. Not so easy on the eyes though.

I called twin vee and asked for a tour. Roger?, the owner said to come on up. One of the first things I look at are the hull sides. Wavy says I don`t care about molds and quality. The cap to hull joint/ GAP was between 1" and 1 1/2" all the way around. No rail yet so I could see the polysulfide caulk used to fill the gorge. The rivets pre-spidered the cap of a new hull...no one poke inggy, and nothing but chopper guns.

The rigging made my slacker look stellar. Fast forward to my tour of Ocean Master. Artisans practicing their craft. Cap holes countersunk and screw slots lined up like Gen. George Pickett`s
charge. That is how it is done folks.

Terry, call Barbour plastics in Ma.. They make the Taco stuff and you can buy direct. Say Hi to Cindy Lou Who.

Ran into a guy in the keys a couple years ago who had a twin vee in the 20' size range (not familiar with their offerings). He had rebranded it a "Turd Vee". Said he was a former employee and had purchased the hull under the employee discount program. Had some problems and couldn't get resolution, hence the rebranding. But he was still running the boat, so how bad could it be? Just an interesting approach by a dissatisfied customer/disgruntled former employee.
Dave