Building splashwells for 20 Master Angler
 

I am going to build a modified splash well for my 20 MA. It has a 20" transom. I think I am going to build a plug, then a real female mold, from which I can pull multiple parts. I will probably vacuum bag mine with a foam core. Maybe even do it out of carbon, as I have some kicking around. It will have a bump out so an outboard can trim all the way up- which is why I am doing this. Mine doesn't have this feature.

I am considering selling these if there is interest. Hermco doesn't make them, unfortunately.

I have an factory splash well on my MA and it wworks great

I don't even use my full door one, but the trim is an issue, nasty crunching sounds when I forget - I would use a split door like a Sceptre out of Teak or starboard hinging the top half and a couple bungies for trim. I used bungies for trim and it worked fine on mine cause I would forget I had it on, I go in and out too much so don't use it. Doesn't take any room and my MA has 1/2" molded cut out for it.

Getting water out is just as important as taking.

If I ever got another 20MA . . . I would make something like this, but a little nicer.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=19593

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...uctwrap017.jpg


Back in the day 2005 . . . I made a mold and did a splashwell for a 20MA, but I never finished that project boat and it went to the dump.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...6/P1010290.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...6/P1010287.jpg

The plug is started. It is solid, as I am thinking of vacuum bagging the plug and mold, just to keep the mess down, plus I can sand the radii into it with a long board before I attach the "bump out" to the door. Plus I don't have a nice table saw for compound joinery. I am more of a CNC mill guy than a Delta table saw guy.

I haven't done parts from scratch in a while- I am working in the corner of my garage for now until it gets too big.

I will post the CAD screenshot of the tilted motor showing where the motor interferes. It looks like 8" is what I need with an in-line 4 cylinder 4 stroke like my Yamaha. Maybe Jorgeinmiami can take a tape measure to his to check clearance. I think he has a tower of power on his 20' MA.

Two things I noticed:

I haven't worked extensively with MDF before. Wow, is it dusty. I am using my paint respirator with the pink N95 "bodyman" filters.

Cordless power tools have come a long way with lithium-ion. I bought a Ryobi 18V combo package, and the circular saw has paid for itself already.

You could have "borrowed" mine to do a plug

You were nice enough to offer it about year ago, unfortunately I was too busy to be able to pull a mold from it then, plus I didn't want to be the guy who borrows a rare part and damages it... :)

Ah fishST . . . have you considered adding a 9" jackplate and seal the edges of the splashwell gate permanently? That should give you the room to get full tilt range without having to fold down the gate.

My CAD model dictating the minimum protrusion needed.