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Big outboards didn't always have power trim! Any older motor without power trim should have a specially made pin just like you're looking for. My 1975 115 Evinrude had one with a pivoting locking tab on one end with a spring and 90 degree bend on other end. You'd just rotate the bent end to point up, push in and the tab would unlock so you could pull the pin, move to another hole and rotate bent end down and push in against spring to lock in place.

The pin only limited how far the motor would drop down. I don't remember it having a feature to lock the motor down, but it did have a lever on side of bracket you could move before you tilted motor up that would hold motor up after you manually tilted it. You had to move the lever down to tilt motor back down and that may have automatically locked it down.

I had a 1966 100 hp Evinrude with a similar pin that had a lever to engage the locking feature to prevent motor from popping up in reverse but I never used it. The motor was heavy enough and I never used reverse hard enough to need the locking feature.

Some of the old outboard hydro and runabout racers would pin them as the "Forward Stop" and then run a couple of bungees around the leg so they would flop around unless they hit something (like another hyro that flipped). This of course was back before Mercury's were White, back when they were Green and had really bad coils and no neutral or reverse. However, if you could get the coils to "catch", the Hurricanes would "yodel".

She will have a limit shaft.
Run her low and slow. You need to bring her back to life.
Double oil. Patience please.

Cheers,
Smoker

Something like this is what you are looking for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-JOHNSON...545dea&vxp=mtr

What are all of your compression numbers

They made about 12 models. Some GTs which may have 120-130 and many came the factory with 90.

Run her on a pony tank and decarb at fast idle 1500 15 mins sit for 15 repeat repeat.
Call the FD first. Seriously.Yes, sometimes I can be serious. Really, I can.

When the motor on my 370 lb yamaha F100 packed up, I unscrewed the relief valve a bit with a standard screwdriver, let it down, and went fishing. Then did the same to trim it up at the boat ramp. So it stayed locked down at sea. Maybe there is a similar valve on your OB?

It is heavy to tilt up and down and when it goes over center, it gets exciting- you could pinch a finger badly if you weren't looking.

Oh yeah. Nothing beats Kroil for loosening up parts.

Sandy's right!!!! Normal compression for a "standard" 90 degree Looper 175 should be 90-95 psi through 1994.
Early 60* Ficht motors were 105-115 psi, according to my SELOC manual.

There is a relief screw on the side of the transom clamp which will allow the raising and lowering of the motor. It only works as a "hold" in position, however, if there is hydraulic fluid in the system.

Some worry that overnight washes too much oil from internals. BRP agreed.

I used the omc 2+4 spray can which attaches to the schraeder valve on the fast start solenoid. Red cap.

I then did the seafoam mix or Dunk method. Directions on the can.

The wall of smoke was 30 ft high and 20 ft wide. I did it at a local ski lake ramp and a Sheriff
on a flats boat came screaming up thinking a warehouse was on fire. He was really mad.
I told him I called the FD.

Maybe just stuck rings. Do you have a bore camera?