T-Top Skins
 

My boat still has the original fabric t-top cover from when bought new in 2001. Lots of small holes starting to develop. Could probably get another season out of it but I'm considering converting to a thin, lighweight hardtop "skin". Does anyone have any experience with these or suggestions for who makes them? I'm leery about going to a standard fiberglass top because of weight considerations on a 21' boat. Thanks

Most are built custom. You might also have to modify the t top to make it where it will bolt on right but not a issue just additional cost. I am worried about weight big time on my 25' seafari and want a hard top. I am building mine out of biaxial carbon fiber with corecell or similar foam as a core. I figured that I can do one at about a 1/3 of a standard fiberglass wood core type. Carbon cost a lot but you can find it on close outs online for cheaper than some s-glass. With the way the deep vee on the 25' is weight is a serious issue but your boat should handle it better.

So, from your description, I'm seeing a thin laminate in lieu of canvas. I've never seen what you're describing, but the idea is intriguing.

You could take the canvas off your T-top and use it as a pattern to lay up a couple layers of 1808 with gelcoat on the top side and then drill holes in the same locations as the canvas, add grommets just like the canvas, and install it with nylon line, just like the canvas. It should be durable as long as there aren't any hard points that it would be stretched over, and it would be really simple to make. Is that what you're thinking?

So, from your description, I'm seeing a thin laminate in lieu of canvas. I've never seen what you're describing, but the idea is intriguing.

You could take the canvas off your T-top and use it as a pattern to lay up a couple layers of 1808 with gelcoat on the top side and then drill holes in the same locations as the canvas, add grommets just like the canvas, and install it with nylon line, just like the canvas. It should be durable as long as there aren't any hard points that it would be stretched over, and it would be really simple to make. Is that what you're thinking?
__________________


No, actually I was thinking of a very thin hard top which would be adhered to the tower permanently not using the nylon line & grommets. I realize this would have to be custom made and I've seen some boats with these tops- just looking for someone in NJ area to consult with and get an estimate- don't know who does this kind of thing.

So you would eliminate the present T-top "outer frame" and not do as Dave mentioned, substitute a thin solid top in place of the canvas? To custom make a solid T-top which would
mount on the legs of your present structure is going to be quite the project.

Google "T-top pictures", there is a lot to look at for ideas.

Alumapole company used to make a plastic material called Pro-Trim, to replace the ttop canvas; much more durable and lightweight.
They also made hats and fly line buckets out of the stuff.
Probably similar materials out there.
Easier than molding a top out of glass and foam.

Ditto to the above.
Our company deals with Alumapole products.We're in the scaffold rental and sales business,and we rent out the aluma pole systems.We don't deal with the marine stuff,but I remember one of our previous workers had used it on his Ctr console and liked it better than canvas.I never saw the boat,but he was very happy with it for the top.

Here's the marine side of their company.

http://www.alumapole.com/alumarinemain.html

Having a fiberglass skin made for my t-top as we speak. I'll let you know how it comes out.
Chuck

Topsntowers in tx offered an alternative to canvas as an upgrade. It appeared to be a marine grade starbrite material. No more than a 1/4" thick, pretty flexible. Secured it by through bolting to the bow.

I did mine in the spring, my old top was shot on the Seavee. I used starlight xl 1/4 inch, slightly over drilled the starlight for any expansion then drilled and tapped the loop or frame of my t-top and bolted it down with s/s fasteners coated with tef-gel then 4200 to seal up the fasteners. Then I used some white flex-trim to dress the edges up. The weight was pretty minimal at 50 lbs per sheet 60" x 96". The xl cost $55 a sheet from a local plastic's company. Got the flex-trim from marine liquidators in Fla.

I fish every day in some pretty crappy conditions and it looks like the day I put it down.

Also my loop or top is flat front to back and bows down from port to starboard. If yours is a Birdstall top it might be hard to do as most have a step in the top or two t-top loops if that makes sense.


Outermost Angling Charters