Antifouling new i/o transom mount ?
 

Just had my i/o's transom mount, gimbal etc the whole kit and ka'boodle replaced.

$$$...

Its shiny shiny… Should I paint it with antifouling ? How should I prep ? I've used Primocon and Trilux with a paintbrush ( aerosol seems too light ) for the the outdrive/ mount in the past. Prepping the small crevices in the transom mount is virtually impossible. I don't want to have paint flake off due to improper prep.

Want to start this off the right way - Boat is docked for 6 months in The Brine.

Thx

scotch brite pad - green one

rub the surfaces dull and coat away

Correct with scotch bite pad. However I use a Harbor frt lphv spray gun to apply trilux.
Have tried the new Pacifica and seems to work well. Only down side to spraying is you have to mask to control overspray. Using gun get paint into all those nooks and crannies.

Scotch brite pad is the way to go. I use a Harbor Freight LPHV spray gun to apply Trilux. I also have used the new Pacifica and it also works, and is easier to spray. Using the gun gets the paint into all those nooks and crannies. Major down side is you have to mask to keep the over spray off the hull. The good part is it is easier to maintain the half inch paint band around the gimball housing

what's more important is,why was that transom assembly replaced ? corroded ?

Scotch Brite got it - however, it's impossible to scuff the inner mount as it's TIGHT ! Any ideas for this area as I don't want to have paint come off ?

Also, after the Scott Brite it - should I Primocon prep before the Trilux or, go straight with Trilux ?

As for WHY the transom mount had to be replaced - it really was the gimbal ring that was shot. I never tightened, nor did I ever touch, the (2) nuts that tighten the gimbal ring to the hardened steel, swivel shaft. So, over time, there was play and that play, coupled with the weight of the Bravo 3, and 12 years ( 800 hours ) of use, rounded the gimbal ring.

It really pisses me off, as I have never read anywhere in the Mercruiser shop manual to tighten or inspect the torque of these two nuts. I maintain my motor 100% and this lack of knowledge just cost me a good chunk of change - motor had to come out and then you start to R/R things that are marginal because, when are you going to have the motor out again ?! Think; oil pan, starter, raw water pump, and a perfectly good coupler ( just because it was the aluminum kind as opposed to the steel kind ). I trust the mech who did the work, he's very good and no BS. Mercruiser parts are $$$$. Fair labor is $$$$.

I will say, I have had a really good experience with the i/o, BUT - the annual labor to prep the drive and the non-servicable, need-to-be-replaced parts make an outboard look like a much easier deal.