Introduction
 

I hope you guys don't mind, I am not a Seacraft owner. Simply a C-Hawk owner. This seems to be the premier forum for rebuilding boats, and my googling brings me back here time and again. I figured it was time to join. I'm putting a new transom in my C-hawk 245 right now. 2 layers of 3/4 Coosa 26, and 4 layers of 1700 planned. Using Raka epoxy.

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Seems like a powerful endorsement of the boat building knowledge of the forum members. Confirms that Seacraft owners are one friendly, talented bunch!

Welcome aboard!
Good selection on the Bluewater Coosa. The same was just installed in my rebuild and I know how much that stuff costs. The good news is that it's worth every penny.

That's a nice looking boat. Welcome to CSC. Bet its going to feel good to get it back on the water.

Rob

Thanks guys, I cut her apart last monday, so I am making good time. Any suggestions on the best way to reattach the stringers? I was thinking cut them at an angle and scarf a piece of coosa to them. Then two pieces of coosa against each side, sistered to the current stringer to provide additional strength.

sounds like a good plan on the stringers looks like your doing a great job

I'd build knees from the bottom of where the deck would be and tie them right to the stringers. An for hells sake cover up that pretty motor with at least a garbage bag before DonV comes and takes it!

Welcome aboard, beautiful boat and nice job there

Thanks guys. Motor is covered now. Maybe I don't understand what a transom knee does. Mine go from above the deck, and are glassed into the stringers. My stringers are full height from the bottom of the deck to the bottom of the hull. If my knees ended at floor height it would just be a bigger stringer. Also, I got ahead of myself worrying about knees and stringers. More importantly how many layers of 1700 bi-axial should I use for the inner skin, and how much should each piece overlap? The previous inner transom skin was about a 1/4", made of woven and mat. I assume 4 or 5 layers of 1700 will be much stronger, but thinner.

This might help - it is a page from my notes about various glass materials:Attachment 14974