23 tsunami anchor bulkhead removal
 

Found a soft spot where my starboard, forward rail stanchion mounts on the forward deck. It's a small, 10-12" semi circle from the stanchion base. The repair from the bottom is tough / tight due to the anchor locker bulkhead. Thinking that going from bottom would be easier if the bulkhead were removed.

Does this sound like a better idea than a surface repair ?

If not, ok -

But, if so, I think I know how to go about the removal and replacement. Are there any hidden challenges ?

The challenge is that the bad area may be bigger than you think. Hope thats not the case.
But ask me how I know

Split it vertically right down the center and save for template. Replace the same way.

The bow feels very solid. Looking underneath, the wood under the glass is all bright - but, near this stanchion base, you can see the darkness of rotted, mildewed wood in a 3-4" area. So, I know the wood a few more inches in each directions will be wet.

If I could cut the bulkhead as Moose mentioned ( the way I envisioned it too ), then remove the bulkhead - do the repair, then, make a new bulkhead, in (2) pcs, then re-install, using wedges to hold the two pcs in place - epoxy them, re-laminate with faux teak - I think this would be easier than going through the top.

If it weren't cosmetic, going through the trip would be much easier.

So, assuming I do it from underneath - while there, is there anything I could/should do to fortify the area ?

Just go way beyond the compromised core and replace with som Coosa and patch glass it in. It will be plenty strong.

I've re-thought this and think that going through the top would be best as working from underneath, against gravity - sux! and, the wet area could be more than I think ( it usually is ).

So, has anyone done a core repair on the foredeck of a Tsunami / Sceptre ?

My approach, as with most core repair - ID extent of wet core with drilling, cut off skin, dig out old, re-core, glass, fair and either gelcoat or awl grip ( I prefer gelcoat but my color matching skills are poor )

Question - what's the rough layup of the glass that's underlying the core ? Is it rigid enough to withstand weight when I weigh down the glassed in core to set ?

Any resto guys still out there ?

I THINK it is very similar to the cockpit deck layup with a layer of mat and a layer of roving a little under 1/10" thick as the bottom skin (underneath the 3/8" balsa/plywood core)- it has been a really long time since I was into that area though and I did not take pics (plus I have killed a lot of brain cells since then). I would expect the lower skin to easily be able to support the weight of a new core and glasswork while you fix it. I think the core stops about 1-2" from the edge of the cap and the lower and upper layer of glass come together for that outer 'rim'.

Ok Sounds good.

Thx