Deck Repair - not attached to stringers
 

My boat was in an accident while being trailered home this fall. The transport company put the whole rig on a flatbed (trailer and boat) and didn’t measure the height. They proceeded to get on the highway and hit an overpass. The console was pulled partially out of the floor (which was wet) and my radar/outrigger tower destroyed.

I got an estimate to fix the deck, but there is a lot of flex in the deck and it appears the deck is floating over the stringers by about a half inch, only bonded with thick areas of putty in a few places. Is this normal? Will replacing the deck core stiffen it enough or is it best to replace the entire thing, raising the stringers slightly so the deck sits firmly on top?

The tank will likely get replaced after we pull and inspect it. I’m just waiting for the insurance settlement and scheming on how to best approach the right repairs if I get enough money. Thanks!

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Man that sucks!
My deck was only bonded to the stringers by blobs and drizzles of 'potter putty' on the tops of the stringers - since the tops of the stringers were not parallel with the underside of the deck, the gap ranged from ~1/4" to about 1.5". If the deck is flexing a whole lot I would suspect the deck core is separated from one or both skins - it may be rotted as well. The core is probably a combination of 3/8" balsa and plywood squares. A good panel with a 3/8" core is pretty stiff.

Thanks. Did you end up raising the stringers and laying a new deck? Looks like you were heading that way in your build. I’m sure our two boats weren’t the only ones that came from the factory this way.

I’m curious if others have gotten away without ripping it out entirely. The deck lasted 30 years this way, I wonder if a new core will just make it stiff enough.

That Potter Putty between the stringers and deck is some amazing stuff.

NO kidding!! The bait well on my brothers '72 23 CC I/O was bedded to the keel with that stuff. After trying to get it out with a forklift tied to the bait well all we did was lift the boat off the trailer, we even tried the "bigger hammer" method with no luck. We finally had to cut it out in three pieces. So much for the crazy idea of re-using it.

Air chisel and or a vibrations cutter is magic on the stuff. I bet I took 50 lbs out of my hull.
https://www.rockwelltools.com/sonicr...SABEgIT1vD_BwE

The shop suggests raising the stringers and laying a new deck on top of the stringers. Not planning to close the transom at this point, so I’m not sure how much the deck can come up before it’s higher than the splashwell, maybe a couple inches.

Once I hear from insurance on the settlement I’ll know my budget, I’m sure it’ll get expensive quick.

This makes me nervous a bit. Are you saying that the deck slopes on the stringers? When I raised my deck I simply built up the stringers evenly and applied the new deck directly to them. I sure hope I don't have a drainage problem.

I am saying my stringers are kinda twisted* compared to the bottom of the deck - I have an I/O and the smallest gap was right in front of the engine well and the biggest gap was pretty much under the helm seat. I seriously doubt you have a problem though. My 12' long deck was at about a 2 degree angle (fore-aft) when I started and even if I lowered it 1.5" up front that would only be a 0.6 degree change in slope. It would still drain just fine unless I did something else really stupid.

* by 'twisted' I am not saying they have broken loose or anything is wrong. When they built these hulls the stringers were put into the hull (probably while still in the mold) as long U shaped boxes - they were probably very flexible. Since Potter Putty was used to bond in the gap between the stringers and the underside of the deck, it did not have to be anything even close to precise and the gap distance did not matter very much. Just getting the stringers in the right place, plus or minus a bit, was good enough.