Re: RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT
A tip for installing a new rub rail I learned from one of the pros. 1) do it on a very hot day and leave the rub rail in the sun for a long time before getting to it. 2) lay the rub rail out on the deck, or, loosely under the boat on the trailer. 3) fasten the stbd aft corner first, drive in 3-4 screw at the spacing you will use all the way around (2"). (this assumes your rub rail is pre-drilled or hole punched) 4) fasten the port aft side, but do it so that the rub rail as it goes around the deck is "too short" to lay naturally. The idea is to attach both sides aft, and then come along and "STRETCH" the rub rail with some force around the bow. 5) use some liquid soap detergent to get it to slide over the bow, the drive one fastener (or bolts) at that point. You want the "stretching" to happen when the rub rail is hot and flexible, and it should be tight enough to require two guys' effort. 6) Go along each side at 4 - 5' spacing and drive in some fasteners, maintaining the proper mounting height relative to the rail/cap. Keep shortening up the spacing on the fasteners until its done all the way around. This method will eliminate the "Wavy" rub rail syndrome. I like to use fast cure 5200 at each fastener with a small countersink drilled in the cap/hull to allow some sealant to accumulate. After its done, seal the top and bottom of the rub rail with silicone to keep water from spraying up or dripping down and to provide a nice clean joint. When doing this (I've done it solo) it helps to have a friend. Keep a can of WD40, and several ROLLS OF PAPER TOWELS. When you are wiping the 5200, just throw the paper towel away after 1 wipe. WD40 is the best solvent for 5200. Same method applies to inserting the insert -start aft, and stretch around the bow.
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