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Ok. I forgot who I was dealing with here ---> The authors of, "How to build a boat like a 'brick sh_t house' ".
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I am not an author but I will offer an opinion based on my 25 years experience in the boat building industry. The standard method of affixing the cap to a hull and the installation of a rubrail differs with the manufacturer. In general it involves the application of a bead of 3M 5200 adhesive sealant between the cap and hull and securing the two parts with either #10 S.S. tapping screws or # 10 machine screws with washers and locknuts on the inside. Then a bead of 3M 5200 adhesive sealant is applied to any gap between the two parts prior to installation of the rubrail to prevent water from intruding into the boat. A bead of 3M 5200 is run at the approximate center of the estimated mounting area the rubrail and the rail is secured with #10 S. S. tapping screws. Then install the insert. A clean up of the excess 5200 is advised then a bead of sealant of choice should be used at the underside of the rail if any gaps are present. You now have a boat with a rubrail. However many manufacturers (Contender)and as we know "Trayder" go the extra step and "tab"/glass the boat on the inside for added strength and durability. In my experience the 5200 method with tapping screws is the standard. While rebuilding my personal 20" Seacraf I am going to go the extra mile and glass/tab where I can. I prepare the areas I will be installing the tabs by grinding then wiping with clean acetone. I cut approx 8"x8" square pieces of 1708 biax and wet out with resin on a piece of cardboard. Then I brush resin on the prepped areas and apply two biax piled on top of each other by hand using the brush to remove air bubbles.
And that is how I would build my boat like a brick sh** house! [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]