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Old 03-06-2006, 10:04 PM
peterb peterb is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Montclair, Sandy Hook & Highbar Harbor, NJ
Posts: 1,148
Default Re: Bennett Trim Tab - Plate replacement Question

Here is a good response that i got from one of our members

Hi Peter,
1/2" diameter rod or tube is a good general size for these inserts. Rods are solid, tubes have a hole down the center of some smaller size, like a straw. We use both, but rods are perhaps more versatile if you are only going to buy one type. Glue them in with West epoxy, thickened with silica (406) so there are no gaps on the edges. If you do it right, the fitting should cover the holes and G-10 so you do not have to worry about covering them with anything. The epoxy is a fine water barrier. For this instance, 1.5" depth will be fine.

FYI, I do not use 5200 for anything, I hate the stuff. If I need that kind of strength, I use epoxy. For just sealing holes, use a 3M 101, Sikaflex, or some less severe sealant.

Peter
----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Boyle" <peter_boyle@hotmail.com>
To: <peter@guckinc.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 6:39 PM
Subject: RE: SeaCraft Question


Peter,

Thank you very much for the timely response. Much appreciated.

Quick info. i have a couple of quick followup questions.

1. For the rod to you mean .5 inches in diameter?
2. What's the diference between a rod and a tube?
3. How deep should I go (1.5 inches or so)?
4. To glue it in should I use the west system 105 & 205 expoy or good old 5200?
5. Should I cover the exterior side (where the screws do in) with anything, like gelcoat or filler?

Thanks again,

Peter



From: "Peter Alarie" <peter@guckinc.com>
Reply-To: <peter@guckinc.com>
To: "'Peter B'" <PETER_BOYLE@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: RE: SeaCraft Question
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 10:33:30 -0500
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Hey Peter,

Great looking boat-I hope to get into a 23 soon!



G-10 is a great material that we use for all sorts of things. If the area
around the old holes is damaged or soft, just overdrill it to the rod size
and glue in a section of the G-10. For this application, I would get a ½"
rod with some smaller size clearance hole (that you will later drill out
when you tap or self tap in the new screw) and glue it in with thickened
epoxy. Ideally you would drill through the transom core to the inner
laminate and stop there, but it is no big deal if you drill through, just
make sure the edge of the g-10 is sealed up well when you glue it in (no
gaps for water). If the holes are really f'ed up, just use solid rod
instead of tube, that way the alignment is not critical at the glue in stage
(you are not aligning an existing hole in the g-10).



I also used this method for my motor mount holes, as the g-10 acts as a
compression tube and prevents cracking the laminate. For that application,
you drill through and leave the rod/tube a tiny long so that it takes the
compression load of the fitting.



Give a call if this in not clear and good luck!

Peter



Peter Alarie

Guck, Inc.

275 Franklin St.

Bristol, RI 02809

401 254 5090 voice

www.guckinc.com

Championship Winning Boatwork!
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