TheHermit,
I managed to get a crow's foot wrench on the nuts through the louver openings. Took a while, but I got them out in one piece without bitch'n up the threads and I hope to reinstall them.
Here's is a follow-up on the transom work.
When I laid out the joint lines for the first layer, I tried to have as few pieces as possible, making sure each piece could be wedged and forced against a firm surface of existing glass/liner material. I also wanted to avoid joints along what I thought would be potential stress lines. Same ideas with the second layer, but I also wanted to one large central piece in order to keep the transom as flat as possible.
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I used Mas epoxy (slow hardener) throughout. I’ve used it before and it has no odor or blush (at least from what I’ve seen. I’m working 100% outdoors so I mixed the epoxy in my cellar (cool) during the hot weather and poured it into roller pans as soon as I brought it outdoors.
My initial lay-up was 4 layers (outer skin plus inside the splash well) alternating 1708 and 1808.
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I used black duct tape to define an area that I wanted additional glass on and repeated that lay-up, this time bringing all of the fabric up and over the transom cutout and tying it into the sidewalls of the well. After it had cured, I could set up off of the tapeline and run a 45^ bit in a router to cut off the waste. I still need to take the hard edge off of the outer edge of the 45^ cut line, and I’ll probably try and work in a small fillet where the bevel meets the transom face.
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I also need to get inside, under the splash well and form a fillet around the perimeter of the Penske Board, then glass the surfaces and tab into the sides and bottom of the hull. I’m also planning to add a knee between the small, centerline stringer and the inside face of the new transom.