The block was covered with glass before I installed it. The Seacock is a 3hole model.
The inside of the bilge was preped with a grinder. Then the block was glued in with epoxy/Cabisol. You can cover it with glass if you want. It's hard to work thru a 8in piehole.
On your block, something I didn't see. I overbore the Seacock mounting holes and back fill them with Epoxy/Cabisol and then redrill the pilotholes. The seacock is bolted down with lag bolt's. This will stop any water that may seep around the thread's from getting to the wood.
The paint is SW Tile Clad HS epoxy paint.
This block is from a different boat. The wood on this one is Cypress. You will see a H & arrow on the block. The H stand's for handle. The arrow is for front. It's VERY important that you mock all this stuff up dry. Make sure the handle is located where you can get to it easy and it will not hit anything. Remember you must be able to turn the seacock onto the thread's of the scoop. I had a close one on that install of the block in the pix.
It's hard to see everything thru a 8in piehole. I couldn't spin the seacock. The handle hit the in deck livewell. The fix was remove the handle for the install. Then reinstall the handle.
Once the whole thing is mocked up, use a Sharpie marker to mark the outline of the block. This will be where to keep the glue. The block is marked with the H & arrow so when everything is taken apart, you can put it back just like it was when it was mocked up. Some foward thinking goes a long way to cure trouble ahead.
