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I could run the 21 degree deadrise portion farther up before the transition to 13 degrees. I avoid trying to slope the tubs bottom upwards as it goes back just because that seems harder to lay out in a way to build a mold.
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I like that idea. It might provide a little more flotation. You can make a more dramatic reverse chine in it also if you want. I think the seamark has a bit of a reverse chine in it. Lets keep in mind that the shape of the flotation chamber is as imortant for boyancy as is the size. My bracket down side up.
I snapped a couple pics of the motor today to see exactly were my anticavitation plate sits. It is actually about 1.5-2 inches below the keel of the bracket.
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The point here is, that anything above the waterline just add's weight and has no effect on flotation to help the boat sit level. Only what is submerged does have a effect.
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Looking back I probably could have made the sides of my flotation chamber deeper thus providing more flotation. Also I probably could have mounted the bracket 1.5 inches lower.
Here are more pics:
Make sure you leave enough room for your transducer if it is going to be a transom mounted.
make sure that you can stand on it and have dry feet....
Why in this photo does it appear that the bracket could be mounted a little lower....
while in this photo it looks like the bracket is mounted just right....
Theres a lot for you to consider. It hurts my head to think about it.
strick