[JohnB]

I am pretty much ready to start building. I ran into 2 things I am pondering,

1. The stringers are minimally attached to the hull on the inside. I suspect they may a little wet. I am going to hit it with a moisture meter this AM. I also have some concern that the glass isn't stuck to the stringers in some areas. There are areas near the floor I can push in with my thumb. Is this just because the stringers where square, and don't sit flush to the floor? or am I looking at something else. I am definitly going to beef up, and reattach the glass on the sides of the stringer back to the hull. The question is should I just cut the glass off the side of the stringer, and put new glass in on the side of the stringer where I can push it in, or just build up with glass over the existing? There are places on this string where it is attached that it is so thin, there are holes where the glass wasn't wetted out.

2. I have read so much on composites, glass, and epoxy, my head it going to explode. I am probably going to spend a little more money, and use Vinylester, vs poly or epoxy. The current option is going with 30 pound nylaboard which is 260 a sheet (OUCH), times 2 sheets, or go back to marine plywood. I have found that there are a lot of problems with separation between the glass and the composite board, especually if you don't have a vacuum system to pull it together. There are many production boats that are having these problems. My plan was to lay the composite coring down flat, and put a layer slow curing glass on top of it, and let it sit overnight. Then put a couple of layers of glass on the transom skin. Then put one layer between the transom skin, and the glass composite board. This would alow for max connection between the composite and the transom skin.

My question is this adds over 350 bucks to the project, and a plywood transom, especially one without a cutout will last 20-30 years. I don't know what the life of the hull is, but that would make the boat 40-50 years old. That is asking alot of of a hull. Really, the only major advantage is a little weight reduction, probably 100 pounds.

I know this has been tossed around quite a bit on here, but what does everyone think the weight difference would be? and has anyone had experience with Vinylester resin on a composite bonding/debonding?