[Bushwacker]

They used various style seats. I believe the 69 model had seats with arm rests, but it didn't have the padded coaming bolsters. I was planning to add arm rests to my seats but there's not enough room with the coaming bolsters. The bucket seat was the original seat that was mounted on a pedestal. The top panel is supported by the seat when opened; I had to put a spacer under seat to insure table was level when open. The box is mounted to cockpit sole via 8 aluminum angle brackets. There's room underneath for a 5 gal water jug to supply the sink faucet which is actually a hand pump; I use a collapsible jug so no need for a vent. Found a neat Coleman pump & shower that screws onto outlet of their collapsible jug, powered by 4 D cells with a foot switch. I rigged it with a couple of pvc valves so I can feed the sink faucet or showerhead for rinsing dishes. Also have rigged it so I can feed it from 2.5 gal black Sunshower bag so can take hot shower on board! Sink drains via a thru-hull fitting in port side of hull. Someone probably covered the access hole to the thru-hull with an inspection port/plate.

I finished all my teak with Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss which was found to be the most durable varnish by PowerBoat Reports magazine; cabin door was done with Honey Teak which is why it's a little darker; Honey Teak was the most durable finish in an earlier PBR test, but it hasn't held up as well as the Epifanes. Be careful with the harsh 2-part teak cleaners if you're gonna varnish it because they destroy the soft part of the grain and leave a very rough uneven surface . . . maybe ok if you're just gonna oil it, but it'll take 10+ coats of varnish with wet sanding in between to get a smooth surface. Better to sand it or run it thru a planner.

I'll probably use the same Formica on the bulkhead that I used on galley seat panels. Got it thru a local kitchen remodel outfit at their cost, but was still about $50 for a 4x8 panel; should be more durable than contact paper though, and not too hard to install.