Gillie - NICE job on the seats, windhield and wiring! On the batteries, I wanted to keep my baitwell intact, but I discovered that you can dig out the foam between the 2 stringers under stbd seat and that leaves enough room for a big battery box, plus a large anchor and 100' of line!
Made the boat a little heavy on stbd side till I added the galley seat with the 6 gal water jug. Also used the lightest battery I could find (An Optima, at about 37 lbs) for the outboard position near the chine, but have a big group 27 in the box. This probably only works for 72 and older models which have 4 fg stringers. (I've seen a 73 model where the two stringers on each side were replaced by one big box stringer; looks like Potter tried to reduce cost by just using the inside portion of inner stringer and outboard section of the outer stringer. Would reduce stiffness, but the boats were so overbuilt to start with that I guess it's not an issue!)
I found these BIG 5" dia. pool noodles at Walmart which do a great job of padding the windshield to protect the cover!
I like your cover and the way the straps attach - looks a little stouter than the one I got at Walmart for a little over $100 w/tax. I started with the $50 one because I wasn't sure about the fit. Fit was great but the strong UV here got to it in about a year, so I upgraded to next quality level. It only has 5 straps on each side and I found I need an extra one amidships to keep it tight enough to drain water. The "ridgepole" is key to making a cover work, so here's what I came up with after years of experimentation. I just run one bow line up to the center of rail, then back to light fixture on windshield and then back to steering yoke on motor, with a couple of supports under the line to give it enough height. The cover is purposely shifted to port because stbd side is shaded by house in the morning, and I wanted more protection to port from the afternoon sun.
By the way Brandon, I love that big Seafari of yours! After trying to maintain the teak on my boat for over 30 years, I found that it's actually easier to just varnish it instead of oiling it. It's a bit more work up front, but will last several years, especially if you keep it covered when not using the boat, although the in your climate the UV effects may be insignificant. The oil seems to oxidize and turn dark in about 6 months, and then it's a pain use the cleaner (which also destroys the soft part of the grain!) and reoil. I used Honey Teak on the door, but it's a pretty dark urethane and you have to measure/mix small amounts of 3 different chemicals. I used Epifanes High Gloss on everything else. It's a lot easier and PowerBoat Reports testing showed it was the longest lasting varnish. Just thin the first few coats per directions and build it up to about 7-8 coats. Then every 2-3 years,you can just scuff it with a red 3M pad, give it another coat or two and it'll look great. If you like spraying hazardous chemicals, Joey's method of using epoxy and the clear Awlgrip looks terrific and may be even more durable! Denny