[Caymanboy]

See if we can answer some of these.
* First of all, now that you have waxed it, you have to dewax it, clean well with a scour pad and either soft scrub or ajax, then a dewaxer.
*Then spot fill all the scratches and holes with a good quaility filler, either Adtech p77 or p78, or an epoxy fairing compound.
*Guide coat the hull.
*Sand with 180 or 220 grit.
*Prime by tampon roller only, two coats of finish primer.
I am partial to either Sterling or Awgrip for Roll n Tip.
I'm sure Interlux's Perfection is good also.
*guide coat primer, sand with 320 grit, spot fill imperfections, prime spotted areas, sand.
Get ready to roll n tip.
The most important thing in roll n tip is the brush, roller, weather and mixing ratio, not necesarliy in that order. Always remember, more prep is more better, what you have will always show through.
*Roll n tip, roll on (foam tampon) roller, brush off, (good badger) brush.
*Remember, good brush, good weather (no wind, no sun, low humidity), proper mixing ratios, and as always, paint flows better with beer!
*make sure to get the proper conerters and reducers for brushing.
Good Luck!!!!
And prepare for 3 coats topcoat, light sand between coats.

No beers for this part, put the boat where you want it, hopefully the bow is under a tree or shed with a strong crosspiece. Lower the front of the trailer all the way to the ground, instal either jackstands or blocks under the pt and stb aft chines, hook a chain fall or fork lift to the bow towing eye, lift er up, remove trailer, install block under bow, let down. if boat is empty (no motor or fuel) don't get in the bow.
*Last but not least, none of the two part paints are good for under the water line, they will blister after a period of time, either leave the gelcoat, bottom paint, or if it is going to be on a trailer the two parts will work, but remember you leave it in for two weeks or so and it WILL blister.