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I see the Etec is more power, less moving parts and lighter. Unfortunately my wallet would be lighter by about $1,500 if I go with that.
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Take a careful look at maintenance costs on the 4 stroke, because you could easily spend that $1500 "savings" on the required 4S maintenance in the first couple of years! Ship Shape TV recently did a comparison between the E-TEC and Zuke maintenance requirements. In the first 3 years where you spend ZERO on the E-TEC, the dealer quoted well over $2000 in maintenance costs for the 4-stroke! They also looked at Yamaha, which had similar or even higher costs. I'd be asking how much of that maintenance you could do yourself without voiding the warranty!
Speaking of warranties, when the E-TECs first came out, they had a 7 year warranty, the first 3 of which were with BRP, and the last 4 with a 3rd party outfit. I understand the current extended warranties are now direct with BRP. They have a great reputation for handling warranty claims, so I would consider that an improvement over the 3rd party deal, although I've had no personal experience with either one.
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When etech first came out they had huge issues with cold temps and sticky oil. More than a few blew up. They had a great reputation for honoring warranties compared to OMC, but not too many 4s are known to blow up with catastrophic block failures the way etechs or HPDIs did.
I am going to have to call shenanigans on this... the suzi, yami, and honda maintenance costs are no where near what this guy is posting. He has been all over the site throwing up sort of silly numbers about ETEC versus japanese 4 strokes... makes me wonder if he is on the payroll or something.
Go look at the miami show. Go look at what is hanging off of 90% of the legit boat brands that are not owned by engine manufacturers... all yami. And the guys who repower tend to do suzi's for good reason.
The bottom line is that you can't go wrong with a 4s or a ficht I mean etec... they are all great engines. Anyone who claims any one of these new engines is way better than any other is any either on the payroll or... go check your local dealer network, buy the cheapest best thing you can. I personally would do a TLDI/Opti over an etech/HPDI based on what happens if you kink your fuel lines, and I would do a DF140 over anything except maybe a TLDI 115.
DF140 is a proven motor, even with all of the plastic parts inside. I guess my point is that a new engine, 4s, high pressure or low pressure 2s, porsche turbo charged, whatever, they are all great. DF140 is just a wee bit better than the rest and has the record to prove it.