my forward fishbox, has zero core, like black bark mulch from an egyption tomb, i am worried the resin mixture will run into the bilge maybe which would be a disaster, so prob suck up a weekend of headstands and toxins with a respirator sand off awlgrip, cut out, recore, etc. prob use interlux epoxy bilgekote not awlgrip after. I cant tell how the core ends in the foward box meaning abutting structure or? re-coring the old way is the best and safest method.
I like that trick/tip of grease fitting. the syringe gravity feed worked great as well, i think I will do both
. after pumping in with the grease fitting and vac, remove fitting, tape syringe to hole and feed more in as needed via gravity. plus vaccuum. pre epoxy-use acetone,compressed air, let stand a few days. drill out holes so have them max 5" apart in soft area, get to good wood(hoping!) with holes. i like the idea of 2 step epoxy- CPES penetrating farther and thinner, followed by thicker epoxy that has some flex ability(like the rot doc stuff or even glflex). thats the plan for the small deck spot near the t-top. its pricey epoxy to use glflex but its got some upside in small areas that flex like a deck, time wise will save me hours instead of cutting the deck up this method.
yeah i am only 175 and can barely feel the spot, its serious glass and on both sides of the core as can be seen at the hatch in rear where did repair. if i redo the deck i think i would cut out only the top, leave bottom glass, and recore. deck height is fine by me now, and scuppers are already out the back. I am afraid to know what my core looks like and my OCD will kick in and next thing its summer and boats on the hard. it looks like prior owner had the area under t-top redone as its a bit up in height and very solid.