this is my rig:
it was completley rewired,by me,approx 10yrs ago
i'm running 3 batteries - charged via an alternator isolator
1 battery is dedicated to the engine,another is dedicated to the 12v system and the last battery is a dedicated spare - all are on selector switches - the boat has 3 bilge pumps - all on a seperate power source - boat's also equipped with a high bilge water alarm.
the 12v system is breaker protected - all wiring is ancor marine grade "tinned" wiring - all connections are heat shrink sealed
battery switches are run in the #1 position
auto switches - for bilge pumps are "fed" power from behind the switches - only connections at the batteries,are cables only - this is how your electrical system should be - i use either lock nuts,or nuts and lock washers on the battery terminals...
the alternator isolator - it's used on either inboards or stern drives - the output wire from the alternator is removed from the starter - a replacement wire is ran,through an ancor "maxi fuse",then that wire is ran to the console,to the isolator - the isolator allows all 3 batteries to recharge,and remain electrically seperated,from each other...this is a "bulletproof" system...
that breaker panel,it's mounted on the bulkhead - aft,in the console - all the wiring runs through "rigging tubes"
1/0 ancor cables feed power and ground to the engine,there's a seperate ground cable,running to the engine,for the 12v system battery,all 3 batteries are "jumped" ground cable as well - via 1/0 ancor cable - it's a little "overkill",but,i'm a big fan of over kill...
questions ?
one of the best products out for holding harness's up,is made by ancor - it's got a hole in the center for a screw- and it's cut,on both sides - this allows a zip tie to be slid through it.those cheap adhesive pieces will not hold up
the pictures will not come through....
i will take repalcement pictures when i get to the shop today - sorry guys...
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do not let common sense get in your way
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