Thread: stern drives...
View Single Post
  #7  
Old 11-13-2011, 10:32 PM
pelican pelican is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: cape may nj
Posts: 596
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_Heron View Post
I think the closed cooled models may have been available with cold manifolds or warm manifolds in different years. Check out the back of Mercruiser MPI Service Manual #31, you'll find water flow diagrams for engines with the manifolds cooled by the closed system. I vaguely remember verifying mine was piped like that, but I haven't looked in a while. It's sitting in my shop covered with a tarp.



Mine is a post-Horizon, Seacore model but not a 2011. I bought it last year. No Cadillac converter.




Nope, just 300 ponies. I think the only 5.7 engines direct from Mercruiser turning 325 HP are carbureted. I was considering one of those strokers like Island Trader got, but couldn't find one with closed cooling.

Dave
no carb'd engine are available from merc - can't pass emissions...

i have not seen one of those "seacore" engines - heard about them,but not seen.

the merc engines have a "dry joint exhaust system - meaning,no water is pumped through the mount point where the riser meets the mainfold - pretty durable set up - haven't seen any failures from them...

only problems i've seen - is the water pressure sensors - back of the engine- power steering cooler,is where it's located - seen a few of these go bad...other than that - nothing...
my own rig,it's got a 5.7mpi,horizon engine - it's an older engine - '02,and it's been 100% trouble free - it's got just about 500hrs on it...i've used quite a few of these on repowers,in both stern drive applications and inboard systems - all with similar results...


make sure you "wheel" that engine,so it just about "bumps" the rev limiter...


the bravo drives,they're a very good drive,very durable simple basic maintance on them...
i have not seen a bravo III drive,since the update,with any kind of corrosion problems - one client of mine has a crowneline,BIII drive - it's an '06 - no corrosion anywhere - it's a slipped boat...

side note:antifouling paint - you really should have a gap,of 1" around the perimiter of the transom assembly,where there's absolutley no paint - leave that area clean - failure to follow this,can result in a galvanic reaction,between the copper based antifouling paint and the aluminum transom plate...
__________________
do not let common sense get in your way
Reply With Quote