Quote:
Originally Posted by abl1111
Agreed. On a new drive - and I HATED to paint it the first time, I would use a Green scotch scrubber. But, once you have painted it, you can use either or. Either way, I'm not talking aggressive sanding - light with 120 or so - I want to remove the oxidized paint. Where metal shows, I sand it to bright aluminum so the primer has a better chance to stick.
When you paint a never before painted drive with antifouling - no matter how you prep it, there will be areas that will come off in 'sheets' - 1/2" or so after a season... These need to be feathered and a scotch pad ain't gonna cut it. Whenever possible, don't use sandpaper, but at some point, it will be needed.
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that's not true - the antifouling paint,it will come off - as far as the paint on the drive it self - it will not - granted,it will "wear",in the skeg area,from hitting the sand,but that's it - the drive in the pictures i posted - that's the original drive,the paint has never peeled on that drive,or any other drive i service - again,the paint i'm referring to,is the paint,on the drive,from the factory.and again,pressure washing,is definatley the way to go,followed by scotch brite pad - granted,a few barnacles may cling,especially,if the boat hasn't moved for a while - most of the time,these can be pressure washed off...
it's best not to "disturb",the original paint on the drive,the trim cylinders and the transom assembly - this can and will allow corrosion to get a "foothold",it also leads to the original paint popping off - which will lead to the entire drive needing to be stripped,chemically etch primed and refinished - the only way to repair that situation permenantly...