View Single Post
  #20  
Old 12-24-2011, 09:05 AM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Gator Country
Posts: 1,416
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbmcdermott18 View Post

If anything looks out of place or anyone has any tips let me know...
Your mold doesn't have any taper. You will have to destroy the mold to free it from your part. Male molds that are intended to be re-used always taper from the opening to the inside. In other words, the closed end is smaller than the open end so it will slide out easily once you break the bond with the new part. I'm not saying it won't work, just that you need to think about how you're going to get the mold out without damaging your part.

Second thing is to make sure you seal your MDF with something to make it waterproof before you go any further. PVA is water based, and the MDF will soak up the water and the PVA won't want to dry. It will also probably raise the grain and make the surface rough.

I use clear lacquer on my molds, but I use masonite as the mold material, and that's smoother than MDF. Strick uses Duratech primer. I'm sure there are other coatings that would work, but Duratech is proven for MDF mold surfaces.

Your work looks good, though. Nice tight joints and good fillets and outside corner radius.

Dave
__________________
Blue Heron Boat Works
Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time.

Last edited by Blue_Heron; 12-24-2011 at 09:09 AM.
Reply With Quote