Peter Alarie's repair notes are here: I bookmarked them for when I do my transom.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...=taper+transom
a link to his work:
http://www.classicseacraft.com/peter...220/index.html
I hope kneedeep doesn't mind me posting a link to his link to his photobucket page of his well documented transom work.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...592#post190592
But you should check out the links on using seacast. That way you keep both inner and outer skins. Seems like a really great idea. New, but great.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=23537
I haven't done it, but it seems like removing the outer skin offers easier access and you keep the original fiber reinforcement path from stringer to inner skin that way. It seems difficult (to me) to maintain this integrity if you remove the inner skin unless you grind away a lot of the inner hull and stringer surfaces to create a long wide patch from the inner transom skin to stringers and hull.
To me, the outer skin of the transom seems much less structural than the inner.
With either approach, I would reinforce the upper hull side to inner transom skin with more layers of glass, just to keep the gelcoat from cracking where the thin upper hull (just below the cap) intersects the stiff transom.
Obviously, there are more than a few knowledgeable people on the list who have actually repaired a transom and/or added and built brackets, and so far, my opinions are just opinions when it comes to transom repair.