Quote:
Originally Posted by FishStretcher
. . . I definitely need brakes (thinking disc/ electromagnetic, if that is an option), and have to address the axle loading issue. . .
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The electromechanical brakes like they use on RV type trailers are not an option if you're gonna dunk the trailer!
Surge brakes work pretty well if you use silicone fluid (DOT 5) in them, since it doesn't absorb moisture and rust the brake cylinders like conventional DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. The only disadvantage with them is they'll come on when you coast going down hill, so could be a problem if you towed in the mountains, but that's not a problem in Florida! Also, if you run disk instead drum brakes, (and you want SS disk brakes on a trailer that will be dunked!) they'll also come on when you back up, so you need a valve between the actuator and brake line to shut them off so you can back up! I use a manual valve since I normally get out of truck anyway to drop the tailgate when backing up so I can see the trailer tires, but they also make solenoid valves that tie into your backup lights to shut off the brakes when you hit reverse. I have enough trouble just keeping the lights working without one more wire to worry about!
There is another more expensive option (about $2-3K more than surge brakes), electric OVER hydraulic brakes, which uses an electric motor to power the hydraulic system. One advantage is it can apply the brakes when you're backing down the ramp. It requires a trailer brake controller mounted in the truck, which feeds current to the actuator as a function of how hard you're applying the truck brakes. These actuators also have a way to apply the trailer brakes alone, which could help stabilize a trailer that started to fishtail. There is a real good article on them in the winter issue of the BoatUS Trailering magazine:
http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/ma...ulicBrakes.asp
Denny