[72potter20]

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

You may cause hard spots if you do that, the hull needs to flex. I would consider adding some additional glass strips Down the sides of the stringers to the hull bottom. Use 6" or 8" pieces and split the distance half on the stringer and half on the hull bottom. The hull I had, split like his did, it tore the stringer loose from the bottom of the hull. When it did it ripped threw the bottom. A lot of load gets transferred to the hull there. You may even want to add fillets in a radius in the corners then add the strips so it will spread the load.

so these hulls need to flex a little. the outside stringers are bonded very well to the bottom with 1708 from the hull sides layered down and up and over the outside stringer. i will add the tabbing to the two centers. thank you for the response

Originally Posted by Lordwrench

if I understand above the liner is cut and glass is added but not cored?I would look at many pics of different 3 piece boat to see alternatives to strengthen above the deck, the corners of my casting platform which is unmodified are both cracked excessively due to the added loads on that hard point due ot removed liner support. look at the pic of shines 23' I posted, the supports from floor to cap in place of removed liner are key for the above deck rigidity and keeping the loads spread. My boat should have at least three on each side, I also really like the pre-formed "speed bump" shaped ribs he used, I would like to see a boat planned that could only use those slick ribs...One reason being the supports from floor to cap are toe destroyers!!

Where you at in the 'Burg,btw?

B

yes the liner is cut to a "3 piece" design now. several layers of 1708 added to the hull sides and right now there is no coring. to be honest, i was really hoping not to core the sides, which is my reason for adding at least 3 heavy duty gunnel supports from the deck to the cap on each side and heavily glassed to the hull. i do like the "speed bump" idea as well and would prefer to do that before coring.

I'm in the coquina key area, yourself?

Originally Posted by dave s

My Contender has a three piece construction, and the sides of the hull have outside glass, a thin ~1/4" core, which looks like divinycell, and a thin ~1/8" inner liner, which continues onto the sole. You can push on the liner and feel it give slightly.
When you bang on the outside of the hull, it feels a bit flexible, but below the deck line, it's rock solid.
Only two vertical supports to house the fuel lines and wiring, but there are a lot of stiffeners under the cap, which is cored with divinycell foam.
If it was my boat, I'd add some core to the sides, besides the 1708.

thanks for the input. i'll stop by fgci and see what kind of products they have for coring