If the bunks are a little wider than the hull steps they will cause the hull to self-center when you pull it onto the trailer. The height of the skids at the front and back is important also. You want it high enough that the keel does not drag along the trailer frame when loading/unloading but low enough to float on and load easily. The front will be a little higher than the back because the dead-rise at the bow is more than at the stern. I have one (maybe 2, cant remember) keel roller near the back to get the bow pointed uphill before the hull makes contact with the skids, that helps.
If you have a trailer shop near you it may be good to let them do it or you could put it together and pay them a little to give it a once over before you put the boat on. Even then I would bring some tools to the ramp at a time when it isn't too busy. Put the boat on and off a few times and make any adjust needed. I did that with mine and it was well worth it. I just drive the boat up to the winch mast and tighten it up. My winch strap has never been unwound more than about 6 inches.
If you are in salt water use as much stainless and aluminum parts as you can. The extra $$ is an illusion! Stuff that doesn't rust is actually cheaper in the long run.
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