Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfin26
I think a short 15" setback bracket with a slightly notched transom is the way to go. It preserves the curved transom (probably going 2/3 way through the cap would allow full tilt up). Fab a neat cutting board to fit in that spot for normal use. 15" would probably give you enough real world tilt to clear most obstacles or beaching.
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Blackfin, I think you are correct. Both I/O to outboard conversions, I am familiar with were with 30" brackets. I was thinking the same thing - maybe a 30" shaft, big prop Zuke on a stubby Vertical Hydraulic Jack Plate with a high notch that would let you run the jack plate up and then tilt the motor might work. It would keep the weight forward. My friends both left the I/O motor boxes and filled the engine box up with fuel tanks or dive tanks. When they eased of the throttle too quickly the engines would partially submerge - not good!
Check with Conner or Dave but I think Carl Moesly's original 25' Safari design had a forward water ballast tank to make the boat ride right with a cast iron Mercruiser INSIDE the transom. When you start moving the CG (actually the Center of Buoyancy) away from the original water ballast tank location in the bow, things get funky quickly.
Go easy, I know enough to be dangerous and like any good Democrat I have no problem spending someone else's money on theoretical shit.