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Old 01-21-2015, 11:11 PM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N. Palm Beach, Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle View Post
Thanks for the insight, I can make the swim platform wider for the ladder to fit under and that might be a nice addition for the kid getting in and out of the boat (this will be out family boat). How wide of a space is needed for a telescopic ladder like you have? . . .

Now about the taper on the tub, I may be worried about something that will not be a problem. I figured it may need the extra room due to me mounting the tub so low. I didn't realize the Hermco is straight outward on the vee part of his, Every bracket that I have seen other than his has had a taper up wards on the vee and more than the 2" that I used. Most taper is like 4-5" up wards. I don't want to loose the volume and had it sketched out as a straight leg but after pulling strings and taking measurements I figured it would drag unless the boat is riding very flat, level or have the tabs buried to keep the nose down. Even with the 2" up wards angle it will only allow for a minimal attack angle before it drags. I changed this last minute after reading about another guy who made one without the taper on the vee and it caused his to porpoise back and forth he claims. He said it would hit the vee and then it would make the nose dive like a tab would but then it would lift back on it and start proposing. He said the boat did not do it before the bracket but only after installing. It was mounted low also. His may of just been a balance issue mainly but it got me worried and that is my basis for adding it.
You can buy ladders in various widths. The one I got was a Windline and needs 13" of width to install. It's a clever compact telescoping design, and works well when lowered, but the top section has to slide thru some U-shaped brackets lined with teflon so can be a bit difficult to raise and lower unless you remember to spray it down good with some silicone or super lube before you launch the boat! There may be other designs that are easier to deploy.

You should be able to lay out/compare the geometry of a flotation tub extending 30" straight back from the transom mounted about 4" above keel vs. one mounted 2" above keel and only extending back 24" to see which is closer to water. The angle/rise of water coming off transom will change depending on speed; more rise at low speed. That hull should plane at about 12 mph if it's balanced right. Maybe you could make up a piece of aluminum angle/plate to simulate dimensions of tub and try it out on your race boat to see if it's clear of water!

My experience is that porpoising occurs at higher speeds, 20 kts+. I think most boats will tend to porpoise after adding a bracket just due to the CG shift caused by moving the motor back, even if tub is clear of water, unless other stuff like console and gas tanks are shifted forward to offset the weight of motor moved aft.
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